Puget Sound SRC Airflo Lines

Nick Clayton

WFF Supporter
A sixer is just fine for most scenarios. Ive only ever hooked one coho that I wouldn't want to have dealt with on a six weight, and even then I'm sure I could have got it done. Just would have taken longer. I think your fish fighting ability has a lot to do with it. Use every ounce of the rod, use angles, and put the wood to them and you'll land most anything fairly quickly. If you have less experience and find yourself taking much too long to land fish, then maybe consider bumping it up.

Chinook encounters are not common but they happen. Fish the beaches long enough and you'll run into a few. If I knew for a fact I was gonna encounter chinook I'd fish an 8. I landed one in 2015 that I wouldn't have wanted to tangle with with a 6. Luckily I was fishing an 8 that day. Speaking from experience though I can confidently say that an 8 isn't going to slow a large, angry chinook either though. A saltwater chinook hooked off the beach is gonna do pretty much whatever it wants anyway

I've landed plenty of chum on a 6 but if I am out specifically targeting them I much prefer an 8.

Overall a 6 is just fine.
 

Jim Wallace

Smells like low tide.
I just checked my older 40+ floater, and I have a leader butt spliced onto the end. I can't remember if I'd cut the loop off myself for some reason unremembered by me, or if the line was one that came that way with a used reel I'd bought.
 

Vandelay Industries

A wholly owned subsidiary of Kramerica Industries
My 40+ 6 wt Intermediate does not have a loop on the end that attaches to the backing. I am going to put a braided loop on the end.
 

Jake

veni, vidi, fishi
I nail knot some maxima leader butt onto it, UV knot sense it, put a loop in the maxima, and call it a day.
 

bhilton

Active Member
Seconding all the 40+ recommendations. I have it and the Beach in intermediate and the 40+ is far more fun to cast for me. If it was an all intermediate line (including running line), and if there were factory loops, it would be perfect. As it is, I use it almost all the time I’m not looking for black mouth or something at a steep and deep beach. Note, all from shore. I’ve got a sink 6 for the boat if I ever get serious about looking for fish from the skiff.
 

Stonefish

Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater....Know Grizzler
With new owners, maybe if Airflo gets enough emails you might see loops on future 40+ line models or a full intermediate.
Just saying ;)
Grease that Mayfly Outdoors wheel....
SF
 

c1eddy

Active Member
New owners...that's news to me. I wonder if they'd be open to the idea of tweaking the design of their Beach line a bit. Love that I can still buy a clear intermediate line that doesn't struggle too much in casting bigger flies, but like others have said, the design could use an upgrade. That, and never could figure out why the clear model was available only up to 7wt.
 

Kfish

WFF Supporter
I've tried them all, Airflo Beach, Rio Coastal Quick shooter, Airflo 40+ S3 and my opinion is similar to previous posters as well.

I really like the clear intermediate Beach line but it's not very fun to cast, takes more work and timing.

Airflo 40+ is a good line and casts well. The head is dark green not clear but I've learned that it does not matter much in it's fish catchability.

RIO Coastal Quick shooter is the best casting line for the sound IMO, that's why I'm still chancing it out there hahaha.. Someday it's going to go bye bye I know it, the loop has already been fixed from the first fail. Whenever that happens I'll spool up the 40+ S3 again.

6wt is all you need, it's a good balance between the size of our fish and the wind. If I ever encounter a true monster fish? Well that's a problem I'd be glad to have :)
 

Stonefish

Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater....Know Grizzler
So, what would you change on the next version on the Beach line?
I’d make the head longer, at least 35’ versus the current 33’ and figure out how to make the line thinner. The current version seems way thicker then other lines and takes more effort to cast and shoot line.
The beach lines with longer heads like the CQS and 40+ are more fun to cast in my opinion then the lines with shorter heads.

I’m with you Lou on the clear head. I used to fixate on it but I really don’t think it is needed now.
Maybe a Beach line with a braided core and longer head the next time around?
SF
 

wetswinger

Active Member
I used an Airflo sixth sense intermediate for a while. The long 20' delta taper made for a smooth cast but with the long belly and overall 40+ foot length was a bit much to handle. Needed too much line out to load the rod. Also had the Beach line which was uninspiring to me. Wulff triangle taper is my all time favorite. This is the saltwater intermediate not the Ambush or Bermuda. 30 ft. head, no belly, no rear taper, just a constant taper to the tip. Intermediate sinks quicker than the Airflo beach, has intermediate running line, and now that it's old and used, has lost its initial memory. Very easy to cast .
 
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Kfish

WFF Supporter
So, what would you change on the next version on the Beach line?
I’d make the head longer, at least 35’ versus the current 33’ and figure out how to make the line thinner. The current version seems way thicker then other lines and takes more effort to cast and shoot line.
The beach lines with longer heads like the CQS and 40+ are more fun to cast in my opinion then the lines with shorter heads.

I’m with you Lou on the clear head. I used to fixate on it but I really don’t think it is needed now.
Maybe a Beach line with a braided core and longer head the next time around?
SF
Agreed, I think slightly longer head would be better, along with some color transition to help with timing. Thinner slicker running line would definitely help with shooting. Maybe it's my imagination but the Beach running line seems to be more limp compared to others and doesn't shoot thru the guides as easy as others. The ridges running line wise (Beach) helps to reduce friction in theory but it also hangs on to water weighing the running line portion down in the basket as well.

Well damn aren't we a picky bunch LOL
If plastics/polyeurethane were never invented we'd be bitching over silk worms and horse hair just the same :)
 

Jake

veni, vidi, fishi
I just spent a couple of hours making a “Frankenstein” line out of some old lines based on some theories and ideas I wanted to try.

Theories:

1. SRC and Coho generally don’t care about delicate presentations.

2. An aggressive head is better for wind.

3. I really like lines like SA’s Grand Slam in my larger rods, but it doesn’t come in a cold water 6wt.

4. The line needs to be able to turn over large flies and small flies (I want to fish #12 all the way through larger multi-shank/stinger type flies).


Here’s what I built:

Level Tip: 6” (0.5’)
Front Taper: 60” (5’)
Belly: 264” (22’)
Rear Taper: 222” (18.5’)

Total head length is 4

First 10’ weighs ~61.4 grains.
First 20’ weighs ~126.5 grains.
First 30’ weighs ~147 grains.

Total grain weight for the head is 186 grains.


Casting Notes:

I took it down to a private beach to avoid the nutty Memorial Day crowds. It actually casts really, really well despite being nail-knotted together. Even into the teeth of the wind. I stood up through my wife’s sunroof as she drove through my school’s parking lot at 15 and then 20 mph. Casts good even then.

The largest fly I had was a 2-shank game changer, and the line turned it over surprisingly well. It also turned over some #12 src flies, and everything in between.

I really need better materials as I used what was on hand (different parts of various 5, 6, 8, and 9wt floating lines from SA, Airflo, and RIO) to get the density right and the tapers “close”. Also, the nail knots, even with “knot sense” are too bulky and lumpy for this to be a line I’m going to fish with. Lastly, parts of it are sinking lines, parts are floating, the running line is a sinking line, and parts of it (curse you, RIO) have stupid amounts of memory that had to be stretched individually. It would be a horrid mess to fish even if I didn’t care about nail knots.

If I had $600 to spend on specific lines I could cobble together an even better and fishable version. Instead, I’ll leave this here and hopefully it will get picked up by someone who knows what they’re doing. (SA/Orvis, if you’re reading this, make a 6wt cold water version of your Grand Slam. Or contact me and I’ll make one for you :) ).
 
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jasmillo

WFF Supporter
Another option for lines without loops is to build one using a heat gun or the quick and dirty way (loop over the end of the fly line and use two nail knots to close the loop). I accidentally sliced off the loop of my SA Sink 30 cold and fixed it the quick and dirty way. Not my idea, someone on this forum mentioned it as a solution....maybe @mtskibum16. Held up well to multiple fish including a few chum.

BTW, that is another line I have enjoyed fishing for salmon. Short head though so it’s a clunky caster. Effective for heavy dumbbell eyes and wind.

Please don’t judge my shoddy nail knots. Done hastily with fish biting and held up so I have not redone :).


B7A176AC-593A-445B-B2E5-5D6654A44D3D.jpeg
 

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