What's Your Preference for Wading Boots

[Northern]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this: the Korkers Kling-on soles, without studs, are slicker than snot on wet rocks! I mean, dangerously, comically, like wearing roller skates on a floor of greased bb's. I barely made it back to the car on a PS beach to change them out. (And I can dance in 5 inch heels )
I love the boots, very light and comfortable, but I only use them with the felts. No experience with studs on Korkers or their Idrogrip (vibram) soles, but I would never, ever, use the Kling-ons for anything but hiking in on absolutely dry ground!
For wading anywhere that traction is critical - the Yak, the forks of the Snoq - the Patagonia Foot Tractors (I have 2nd gen, not the Danners) have incredible grip on rocks. Not so much on convenience store floors. So perhaps the aluminum bar Korkers soles would be similar.
Just my 2 cents to warn you off the Kling-ons!

 

[or_proto]

You might want to try to wrap or dip something around the stud prior to threading them in. You could try a thin piece of paper but that must likely would disintegrate quickly or dip the threads prior into a rubber cement for a better grip. Just a thought, should be other ideas as well. Either that or take them back to where you bought them, ask them if others had the same problem and what they'd recommend you try..

the rubber cement idea might be the ticket
[i was fishing a bit wondering on whether it’s a warrantee issue, but wasn’t sure that was appropriate...]

 

[Salmo_g]

I find I lose one fairly regularly from one or two specific holes. I think the screws have wiggled enough and the holes are now not stout enough to retain the replacement studs

Drill a new pilot hole, close to the original, small enough in diameter to securely hold the stud screw.

 

[cdnred]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this: the Korkers Kling-on soles, without studs, are slicker than snot on wet rocks! I mean, dangerously, comically, like wearing roller skates on a floor of greased bb's. I barely made it back to the car on a PS beach to change them out. (And I can dance in 5 inch heels )
I love the boots, very light and comfortable, but I only use them with the felts. No experience with studs on Korkers or their Idrogrip (vibram) soles, but I would never, ever, use the Kling-ons for anything but hiking in on absolutely dry ground!
For wading anywhere that traction is critical - the Yak, the forks of the Snoq - the Patagonia Foot Tractors (I have 2nd gen, not the Danners) have incredible grip on rocks. Not so much on convenience store floors. So perhaps the aluminum bar Korkers soles would be similar.
Just my 2 cents to warn you off the Kling-ons!

Thanks for the heads up and mentioning that. That's really important thing to know. For the rubber soles to be so slick, I'd image they'd be rather hard and not soft for gripping power..

 

[Robert Engleheart]

Drill a new pilot hole, close to the original, small enough in diameter to securely hold the stud screw.

I don’t drill a pilot hole, just some pressure to get the screw started. That’s with Simms studs in Simms soles; using the designated or marked locations for the screws. Salmo_g might be correct, if your drilling a pilot hole it maybe too large.

 

[cdnred]

the rubber cement idea might be the ticket
[i was fishing a bit wondering on whether it’s a warrantee issue, but wasn’t sure that was appropriate...]

I wasn't sure whether you still had a warranty on them or how long it lasts. I'd question them about how the warranty would play into the loose studs and see if they can rectify for you first..

 

[cdnred]

I don’t drill a pilot hole, just some pressure to get the screw started. That’s with Simms studs in Simms soles; using the designated or marked locations for the screws. Salmo_g might be correct, if your drilling a pilot hole it maybe too large.

I'm sure if there still is a warranty still in place, drilling a hole would definitely void the warranty for sure. My thinking is find out from the company first what they can do for you to help rectify your concern before doing anything drastic..

 

[Brian Miller]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this: the Korkers Kling-on soles, without studs, are slicker than snot on wet rocks! I mean, dangerously, comically, like wearing roller skates on a floor of greased bb's. I barely made it back to the car on a PS beach to change them out.

Good point, and Thank You for calling that out!

I had a similar problem on a beach in March with my formerly studded (until several of the screw-in studs were lost) rubber soled Chota STL boots now dedicated for SW beaches. I'm going to buy a box of stainless hex-head sheet metal screws to stud those puppies again.

I've tried to be specific about using non-studded Kling On soles only for long approaches, and I wouldn't use the non-studded Kling-On soles for wading anywhere.

On the Korkers website a one-star review of the non-studded "sticky" Kling-On soles titled An injury waiting to happen if used on the river was responded to, by most likely a Customer Service rep (doesn't CS always have to clean up Marketing's crap?) saying "Thank you for your review. The Kling-On sole is best when used as an approach sole (hiking, in boats, or in mud, on grass). For enhanced traction on freestone rivers, we recommend felt or a studded sole." Ha!

 

[Rocking Chair Fan]

I guess I approach this a bit differently. What type of wading are you going to do primarily? Salt, freestone, freestone that is slicker than snot (like Rock Creek), wading out a boat, etc.. Is there a lot of hiking involved to get to the water? How much ankle support do you need?

No one boot is going to be great at all of those. Korker tries but it falls short by being the answer to everything aka compromises...

I agree with others. Having laces with the ability to have different control of tightness is paramount for support and comfort.

So for me it is great support with felt and studs. If it is a short hike, I wear my felt with studs and live with a bit of discomfort. If I am going to hike a lot, I wear light weight boots in, and then change over to my wading boots. More weight and bulk? Yes, but having the right boot for the job makes it the right choice for me...

 

[Dustin Bise]

i like the low end korkers. most wading boots are FAR to heavy for my tastes.

 

[kmudgn]

I am a big fan of Korkers. I did have an issue with a pair that was replaced without problem by Korker and I got a new BOA system for no charge from BOA as well. The other thing I like is that the soles can be changed out in about a minute. For example, when hiking to a remote pond I use the rubber soles and then change to spiked felt, or may have spikes on and then want to get into a boat, so I can change to plain felt, etc. Using Korkers saves me from having to carry extra boots. My only complaint is that the BOA does tend to loosen, but then again it takes 30 sec to re-tighten

 

[joelals]

I've used Simms as they seem to last me longer than other's that I've tried. One thing that is a pain, and kind of expensive, are the studs for rubber sole wading boots. If you do get rubber you may try out something like this: https://koldkutter.com/products/kold-kutter-ama-legal-8. I just ordered these up to try on my boots as I keep going through studs as I hike and fish.

 

[Big Rob]

SIMMS (felt) Freestones, size +1, and add in some Green Superfeet, and I can hike/Wade all day.

 

[cdnred]

I am a big fan of Korkers. I did have an issue with a pair that was replaced without problem by Korker and I got a new BOA system for no charge from BOA as well. The other thing I like is that the soles can be changed out in about a minute. For example, when hiking to a remote pond I use the rubber soles and then change to spiked felt, or may have spikes on and then want to get into a boat, so I can change to plain felt, etc. Using Korkers saves me from having to carry extra boots. My only complaint is that the BOA does tend to loosen, but then again it takes 30 sec to re-tighten

How far do you normally hike in..? What would be your average closest and farthest you used them for..? For a short hike in I'd image the Korkers with the rubber sole would be good but what about for a much longer hike that might be better suited for a true hiking boot..? I'm lookin at the Korkers Terror Ridge, they seem like they'd be suitable as a hiking boot for support and distance. I'm mainly looking at fresh water river or small lake fishing. You didn't mind using the BOAS over regular laces..?

 

[cdnred]

I've used Simms as they seem to last me longer than other's that I've tried. One thing that is a pain, and kind of expensive, are the studs for rubber sole wading boots. If you do get rubber you may try out something like this: https://koldkutter.com/products/kold-kutter-ama-legal-8. I just ordered these up to try on my boots as I keep going through studs as I hike and fish.

The Koldkutter screws look like a great idea. Let me know how they work out for you after you've tried them out..