DIY full intermediate Skagit/Spey line?

bconrad

Active Member
Thanks olyfish, yes I have reached out to Steve, just need to find some time to call him. Great suggestion on Emerald Waters as well, thanks!
 

Ryan Janos

Active Member
Has anyone spliced together mutiple intermediate components to create one single intermediate line in the 600 grain range? I've seen a few premade solutions intended for lighter switch rods but so far haven't had any luck finding something in the 7-8 weight spey range. I'm willing to chop up some lines but I'm concerned about how strong the connections will be on intermediate coatings. Looking to use the PVC line splicing approach using Airflo lines if possible.

I've had no strength issues with welding intermediate sections together. I just use a section of shrink tubing, take a fresh razor and shave off about 1/3 of the diameter of the thicker line and lay the thinner line over that part (about 2"), weld and roll on a board to keep it from getting curled, strip off shrink tubing after it's cooled and apply a thin coat of UV flex to the full length of the connection. It's worked great on stripers up to about 5lb. Haven't had the good fortune of testing the connection on anything larger, but when I pull on it hard in the garage it doesn't budge :).

If you shave off the right amount you can get a connection that goes through guides just fine so stripping it all the way to the tip is doable.

Another poster mentioned that unless you're doing the DIY job for fun you'd be better off buying a line. I understand that point in principle, but I think learning to modify your lines to better match your rod, fishery and casting style is a good skill to build. And with the price of lines these days... :mad:

Good luck!
 

bconrad

Active Member
I've had no strength issues with welding intermediate sections together. I just use a section of shrink tubing, take a fresh razor and shave off about 1/3 of the diameter of the thicker line and lay the thinner line over that part (about 2"), weld and roll on a board to keep it from getting curled, strip off shrink tubing after it's cooled and apply a thin coat of UV flex to the full length of the connection. It's worked great on stripers up to about 5lb. Haven't had the good fortune of testing the connection on anything larger, but when I pull on it hard in the garage it doesn't budge :).

If you shave off the right amount you can get a connection that goes through guides just fine so stripping it all the way to the tip is doable.

Another poster mentioned that unless you're doing the DIY job for fun you'd be better off buying a line. I understand that point in principle, but I think learning to modify your lines to better match your rod, fishery and casting style is a good skill to build. And with the price of lines these days... :mad:

Good luck!

Great info, thank you! I think I may try this at some point once I get a few lines together. One question, if you're removing the shrink tube what function does it perform? Just holding everything together as you're heating it up? I'm assuming you're applying heat to the entire section of shrink tube and it shrinks as you're welding?

Sorry for all the questions, if this is standard line welding stuff I can go do some reading!
 

cmann886

Active Member
Great info, thank you! I think I may try this at some point once I get a few lines together. One question, if you're removing the shrink tube what function does it perform? Just holding everything together as you're heating it up? I'm assuming you're applying heat to the entire section of shrink tube and it shrinks as you're welding?

Sorry for all the questions, if this is standard line welding stuff I can go do some reading!
I have never spliced line pieces. However I believe that I would splice the core as well as the sheathing.
 

RedFive

Active Member
A RIO Scandi Intermediate Body (only) in the corresponding grain weight for your rod, looped to a your choice of running line (I use Airflo Miracle Braid, but any one will do) will get the job done. Throw a 12 ft poly leader on it and your favorite tippet and it will blast clousers out there. This particular head doesn't exhibit the stickiness you're referring to and flies equally well using overhand and spey/skagit techniques.

As far as rod weight goes a 6 weight should be able to throw those monster clousers you reference. Using a stiffer tippet and maybe a shorter leader will turn them over. The 6 weight RIO Scandi Body is 400 grains, plenty heavy to turn those big flies over. If you are overheading only, it might actually work on your 8 weight and depending on how much overhang you're comfortable with and the smoothness of how you use the lower hand to apply power on the forward stroke.

Good luck out there, whichever direction you go in.
 

Ryan Janos

Active Member
I have never spliced line pieces. However I believe that I would splice the core as well as the sheathing.
@cmann886 has a good point, though the intermediate lines I'm using a clear and don't have a traditional "core" material to pull through or splice. Food for thought: the welded loop at the end of your fly line is often just doubled over and the plastic coating is heated up to create a strong bond. Custom T-Tips can be done this way and you're targeting stronger fish with them than what you're trying to accomplish with your 6wt.

Maybe others have more information on whether welds need to include a splice.
 

garyl

Member
I know you said you weren't interested in a 2 hand overhead line, but the SA Sonar Trident lines are integrated and come in intermediate and fast sink and I would think that you could spey cast them like a Scandi head rather than just overhead, although they do have a similar taper to the OB short. I have the 11' Beulah surf rods (like a switch) and I'm looking into those lines. I think that RIO also makes intermediate Scandi heads that paired with a grip shooter would work and wouldn't be too sticky in the guides. I've owned some Method switch rods and the Plus 3 wts is pretty close for single hand weight match. You just need to find the right taper. The problem is that most Manufacturers don't make shooting heads in the higher grain weights anymore.
 

bconrad

Active Member
Thanks for the feedback all! I've been on vacation for the last week so no time for trying some of the recommendations that you've written up here, but I intend to get started soon. I'll post to this thread with my results.
 

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