Twisting anchor rope - please advise.

troutpocket

Active Member
Okay, I've put in three days in on central and eastern WA lakes with the new anchor setup. I like it. No more twist.

One of the days was in conditions I would call the top end of fish-able wind, like 15+ mph with bigger gusts. All day. There were fish on the shallow flats, but not concentrated up in any particular area. So it was a move around and drop anchor when you find one kind of a day. I probably dropped anchor 20 times in depths of 5-12'. I used the big anchor on the stern to hold the boat and dropped a 15lb mushroom off the bow to prevent bow swing. By the end of the day it sure felt like work but we probably got 30 fish to the boat.

The other two days I got into heavy chironomid hatches in 4-8'. Never had to try deeper water. With more cooperative fish I was able to use the boat the way I like . . .a very comfortable casting platform. Set the anchors and commence with the bobber bite.

So if you fish a lot of lakes and suffer through twisting anchor rope and the problems it causes over a day of anchor drops, I would recommend the swing mounting device I linked. It was an easy fix.
 
Last edited:

Tim Ihle

Active Member
Okay, I've put in three days in on central and eastern WA lakes with the new anchor setup. I like it. No more twist.

One of the days was in conditions I would call the top end of fish-able wind, like 15+ mph with bigger gusts. All day. There were fish on the shallow flats, but not concentrated up in any particular area. So it was a move around and drop anchor when you find one kind of a day. I probably dropped anchor 20 times in depths of 5-12'. I used the big anchor on the stern to hold the boat and dropped a 15lb mushroom off the bow to prevent bow swing. By the end of the day it sure felt like work but we probably got 30 fish to the boat.

The other two days I got into heavy chironomid hatches in 4-8'. Never had to try deeper water. With more cooperative fish I was able to use the boat the way I like . . .a very comfortable casting platform. Set the anchors and commence with the bobber bite.

So if you fish a lot of lakes and suffer through twisting anchor rope and the problems it causes over a day of anchor drops, I would recommend the swing mounting device I linked. It was an easy fix.
Thanks for the thorough descript of first impressions. I have ordered it and will employ immediately upon installation. I do not fish still waters and focus on rivers instead - where my big lead will no doubt tumble and roll. I can only hope this additional device IS the answer. It’s in the lords hands.
 

Tim Ihle

Active Member
Swing anchor installed.

Question: what is the best knot here?
 

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ceviche

Active Member

Anchor Bends:

Either a Bowline or a Round Turn with Two Half Hitches (with the bitter end seized to the working side of the knot). The Bowline is fine, if you plan on removing the anchor line from the anchor on occasion--or if you aren't worried about a thief stealing your anchor. Otherwise, Ashley's Book of Knots recommends the easily tied RTTHH, among others. If you want a seriously permanent "Anchor Bend," try the Fisherman's Bend. This one is a little less easier to tie than the former two, but it comes with the highest recommendation for the purpose.

To tie these, creekx's hyperlink ought to be fine for finding examples.

One last note. Don't coil your anchor line moving from the bitter end towards the standing part near the anchor. Do that and you insert twists close to where the line goes out over the side... and into where all those twists gather around by your anchor. I've seen that happen with line (ropes) in different situations.

Therefore, the best way to retrieve your anchor would be to haul all the line in, cleat it off, and then coil your line starting from by the cleat and then gather in until the bitter end is collected. While this method does introduce a half turn with every loop, it doesn't push more and more twists closer to your anchor every time you coil your line and release again the anchor.

Now having swivels installed might help some-- but only if they can swivel freely when under a strain and if the kinks managed to get on that side of anchor's sheave. If kinks keep appearing on the side of the anchor opposite of the terminal swivel and h?

That said, and having looked at some of the swivels posted, there was only one candidate that looked like it might do the job, and that one is Troutpocket's. It looks well built with bearings in the swivel. Additionally, having the sheave to swivel to carabiner clip to anchor assembly will also help minimize kinks and spare the added need to learn a good knot to secure the end of a line to the anchor.
 

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