I just use the marking board, then basically freehand with a small rotary sander and a tongue depressor as a thickness gauge...not very machinist like, but seems to work. I stay away from ferrules or splice joints...and the toward the tip. I noticed the hollow built rods really seem to have a livelier 'action' to them.What sort of jig did you use for the scallops?
Tom, if you bring that 8' rod to our next rod casting party please make sure I give it a try, it sure sounds like the perfect rod to me.I'll veer off from Steve's topic and talk about "something old!" The other day I fished two rods that have sat in the closet for many years:
My "indicator rod" was the first one I ever made - in 2000 at the late Wayne Cattanach's clubhouse in Grayling, MI. It's a 7-1/2' Paul Young "Perfectionist" taper, and I only used it a few times. The rod was designed for fishing mid-sized streams with a DT4, but worked nicely with a WF5 and a small corky indicator.
My "cast and strip" rod was an 8' that I made in 2002 - a modified Powell "B" taper with a slope of .290/100", the same slope as one of my favorite Ray Gould tapers. This was the first rod that I designed myself, and used processes somewhat different from what Wayne taught us. For a few years, this was my favorite rod for everything - lakes, streams, and saltwater beaches. It has a smooth, fairly slow action.
I'll always be experimenting and trying new designs and techniques, but these rods worked great and brought back a lot of memories for me. I hope to use them on a more regular basis.