Anything new??

para_adams

Active Member
Been concentrating on my "new" '69 FJ40 Land Cruiser. But my b'day is coming up, so I treated myself: Bought a "new" Peerless #5 Dry Fly Special.
That's one I'd like to see, pics please! Those DFS rods cast very well. Good blend of power and smooth, medium/medium fast flex. They take a double haul quite well and are good for casting large flies into the wind. Mr. Phillipson produced yet another great western rod with his DFS.
 

BearBio

Active Member
That's one I'd like to see, pics please! Those DFS rods cast very well. Good blend of power and smooth, medium/medium fast flex. They take a double haul quite well and are good for casting large flies into the wind. Mr. Phillipson produced yet another great western rod with his DFS.
When I get a chance==having problems downloading pics lately (New computer)
 

Mike Monsos

AKA flyman219
WFF Premium
I'm finally putting the final touches on a threesome of rods I have have been tinkering with for a long time. I bet it was three years ago that I planed out the strips for these. Nearest is a Para 14 taper, the middle is a Payne 197 taper and the far one is a Leonard 50 D taper. I'll be able to cast them soon as the reel seats are set. 20210521_031627503_iOS.jpg
 

Mark Kadoshima

Active Member
I'm finally putting the final touches on a threesome of rods I have have been tinkering with for a long time. I bet it was three years ago that I planed out the strips for these. Nearest is a Para 14 taper, the middle is a Payne 197 taper and the far one is a Leonard 50 D taper. I'll be able to cast them soon as the reel seats are set. View attachment 282555
Okay...I'm assuming placing the reel seat last helps align it correctly with the guides or are there other advantages? I've got a couple reels just a degree or so out of sync with the guides : )
 

Mike Monsos

AKA flyman219
WFF Premium
For me I add the reel seat last just for that reason. I turn my own reel seat inserts so I can custom cut the length if necessary to keep all the sections equal. If you are using premade reel seat sets you'll need to be sure of your grip position if you add the reel seat last. Tom Morgan sold the neat alignment reel foot and pin that is on the near rod. It really helps and is light, in a pinch reel cages work well also. I clamp my base section to a board to keep the flat with the stripper guide in the up position so I can eye the alignment during the glue up.
 

Canuck from Kansas

WFF Premium
Okay...I'm assuming placing the reel seat last helps align it correctly with the guides or are there other advantages? I've got a couple reels just a degree or so out of sync with the guides : )

Hmmm, I do it the other way around, ie, center the reel seat on the flat opposite the spine (if there is one), then add cork grip, then guides on the same flat. Everyone has their own method, which is kinda neat.

cheers
 

Mike Monsos

AKA flyman219
WFF Premium
Hmmm, I do it the other way around, ie, center the reel seat on the flat opposite the spine (if there is one), then add cork grip, then guides on the same flat. Everyone has their own method, which is kinda neat.

cheers
I totally agree, there are plusses and minuses for any different method. That's the fun part also, so many small things to consider and try out to see if it works in your own system. Sometimes even the most minor change in method can be a "ah-ha" moment :) and of course there's always the WTH did I do that for:confused:
 

Canuck from Kansas

WFF Premium
I totally agree, there are plusses and minuses for any different method. That's the fun part also, so many small things to consider and try out to see if it works in your own system. Sometimes even the most minor change in method can be a "ah-ha" moment :) and of course there's always the WTH did I do that for:confused:
Yup, I tried wrapping in reverse, ie, starting up near the eye and wrapping towards and then onto the cane - thought it would be easier to control the # of off foot wraps (ie, I like 3), problem was without a base, wraps would slide off that last little edge on the foot leaving a gap :eek:, you'd have to really file them down for it to work.

cheers
 

Mark Kadoshima

Active Member
View attachment 272262
Attempt at another picture. My 7' 6" 3 pc 5 wt for hopefully an alpine lake with a full sink line.
Gives you all an idea as to my organization! : )
Haven't had a chance to get up to an alpine lake yet, so brought it to the beach this morning. Throws a 6wt intermediate fairly well. Caught a couple small src...lot of fun with such a light rod! Realized as I was lining the rod, I managed to get one of the guides off by one hex : (. Still fished fine but got a little correction to take care of. Do I use mineral spirits to removed the varnish over the threads? I've got Tru oil over the blank.
 

Mark Kadoshima

Active Member
Thomas Special 8' 3 pc 4wt with two tips waiting to get some coats of oil. I made one of the tips just a hair lighter just to see if I can tell the difference.
 

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Tim Cottage

Formerly tbc1415
WFF Premium
It seems this corner of the forum has been a bit slow lately so.......

I finished this rod in August of this year and fished it about a dozen times since then. I didn't bother to clean it up for photos. Its an 8' 5wt modified version of a Cliff Constable Empress. Its a slow progressive taper that rolls and overhead casts equally well.
It contains a number of experiments or at least some things I haven't done before.

I wanted to know just how dark I could flame a rod without destroying the structural integrity of the cane. Its always a good idea to understand the limits of the materials that you work with. Establishing those limits allows you to confidently work backwards from that point. I think I'm just about there and don't plan on going this dark again. There's a bit of technique involved in the process but the rod hasn't broken yet so I think I'm okay.

The blank finish is Gorilla Glue
IMG_0129.JPG


IMG_0130.JPG

I glued the cork rings directly onto the blank and turned the shape in the lathe. I think this provides the best fit and precludes the use of fillers under the cork to accommodate a handle that doesn't fit well to begin with.

IMG_0139.JPG

The seat is Padauk turned on an eccentric mandrel. The seat finish is Gorilla Glue. The seat hardware is nickel silver with a textured surface. This may be heresy to traditionalists or those attracted to shiny objects but I like it.

IMG_0127.JPG

Ferrules are a bronze alloy similar to Duronze but a little bit harder. Also a textured finish. Unfortunately the ferrule fit is not as good as I would like it to be so I'll have to buy or make a new male for a better fit at some point in the future.
 
Last edited:

para_adams

Active Member
It seems this corner of the forum has been a bit slow lately so.......

I finished this rod in August of this year and fished it about a dozen times since then. I didn't bother to clean it up for photos. Its an 8' 5wt modified version of a Cliff Constable Empress. Its a slow progressive taper that rolls and overhead casts equally well.
It contains a number of experiments or at least some things I haven't done before.

I wanted to know just how dark I could flame a rod without destroying the structural integrity of the cane. Its always a good idea to understand the limits of the materials that you work with. Establishing those limits allows you to confidently work backwards from that point. I think I'm just about there and don't plan on going this dark again. There's a bit of technique involved in the process but the rod hasn't broken yet so I think I'm okay.

The blank finish is Gorilla Glue
View attachment 297837


View attachment 297838

I glued the cork rings directly onto the blank and turned the shape in the lathe. I think this provides the best fit and precludes the use of fillers under the cork to accommodate a handle that doesn't fit well to begin with.

View attachment 297839

The seat is Padauk turned on an eccentric mandrel. The seat finish is Gorilla Glue. The seat hardware is nickel silver with a textured surface. This may be heresy to traditionalists or those attracted to shiny objects but I like it.

View attachment 297840

Ferrules are a bronze alloy similar to Duronze but a little bit harder. Also a textured finish. Unfortunately the ferrule fit is not as good as I would like it to be so I'll have to buy or make a new male for a better fit at some point in the future.
Tim,

Nice build, and one that I'd love to test cast someday knowing how much you enjoy the Constable tapers and knowing how much I like an 8' 5 weight bamboo rod, probably the sweet spot for me. I've read good reports about the gorilla glue finishing and now that I've done away with my heated varnish dip tube I may try that someday as a fun project. Also, the dark flaming is interesting as one of my ongoing unfinished projects is a very dark flamed blank I bought from Dick Hedges' stash a couple years ago and I've been worried that it might break once it goes into regular use. Enjoy that rod you've made and keep up the great work!
 

Tim Cottage

Formerly tbc1415
WFF Premium
Thanks Ron. I wouldn't worry about the Dick Hedges stash rod. As an accomplished rod maker I would think he understood the do's and dont's of dark flaming.
 

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