Trolling motor for Predator Lo Pro X

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hardcore flyfishing addict
I just bought a Predator Lo Pro X and want to use an electric trolling motor on it when I fish lakes over 150 acres or so. I was thinking that a Minn Kota with 30 lb thrust and a 30 inch shaft would be good. However, when I assembled it and pumped it up in the basement, the top of the motor mount is 20 inches above the floor. Assuming that the pontoon boat would sink 4-5 inches into the lake when I sit on it (I weigh 175 lbs), it seems to me that the top of the motor and handle wouldn't be much above the top of the motor mount when you get the prop deep enough to run efficiently and without much noise. Would it be better to get a 36 inch shaft on the motor? I am interested in finding out if anyone else has a predator Lo Pro X, Outlaw Predator or similar Scadden frameless pontoon boat and what motor they found worked well for them. I appreciate any insights you can give me, since this will be the first time I will be using an electric trolling motor on a pontoon boat.
 

IveofIone

WFF Supporter
I have an older Predator and the 30'' MK works just fine but mine has a home made motor mount and doesn't look as high as the LoPro. I would get the boat in the water before I bought the motor and get some good measurements. That 36'' motor is going to look like a monstrosity on that small boat and be a chore to handle. Look before you leap on this and get the 30'' if at all possible.
 

Sportsman

Active Member
Go with the 30/30. I have a 10+ year old Renegade, with Dave's motor mount. Didn't care with the strap system, so a couple glued on D-ring patches and highly custom straps and buckles. I can mount it with it fully inflated and it is rock solid. Anyway, you'll find that you don't need the prop very deep, opposite what your thinking about. Haven't seen your particular boat, but probably close when it's in the water.
 

Haggis57

Active Member
I think you should be fine with the 30" shaft. As recommended above, I wouldn't go any longer than you have. See attached picture below for my Fish Cat Scout which is similar to your Predator. The Scout also has 16" dia. pontoons and the top of my homemade motor mount is 22" above the bottom of the boat. I have approx. 8 - 10" of water above the top of my MK 30/30 motor barrel and haven't noticed any problems with cavitation above the propeller. I think Minn Kota recommends 12" of water above the motor. I don't think the Predator will sink 4 or 5 inches though. These u-shaped boats with inflatable seats have a ton of flotation. I'm 210lbs and I'm sure the bottom of my boat isn't more than 3" below the waterline. The Scout is a foot shorter and should have less flotation than your boat.

Same advise for the battery - don't get any bigger than you need. I have been using a 35 A-Hr SLA battery (22 lbs) for 3 years and can get at least a couple of hours steady running at speed 2 or 3. However, I just use the motor for relocating around larger lakes or heading back to the take-out - always seems to be against the wind at the end of the day. I don't use the motor for trolling.

Good luck with the new boat!
Ken
 

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tippet

hardcore flyfishing addict
Ive, Sportsman, and Haggis, I REALLY appreciate all of your insights and help. I agree that I shouldn't get a battery any heavier than necessary. I was thinking I would need a 12 volt, 35 A-Hr AGM battery. The newer lithium batteries also sound intriguing, since they apparently are lighter and run longer than the lead acid batteries. I am not a troller. I just want to go from place to place on bigger lakes and then work a shoreline casting and stripping or anchor up in areas and fish under an indicator. If I do troll, I prefer to do it with fins to work a relatively small area where fish seem to be in higher numbers.
 

Haggis57

Active Member
I you're going with a 35 A-Hr battery, you can consider putting the battery in shotgun shell box for easy handling. I wired the battery to a waterproof receptacle on the side of the box so I can just plug the motor into the battery for simplicity.

I you want to get real fancy, you can add a poor-man's remote steering like this guy did. Just run a couple of pieces of paracord from the eyebolts on the trolling motor shaft to either side of your seat. I've done this and it works well.

Ken
 

IveofIone

WFF Supporter
Ive, Sportsman, and Haggis, I REALLY appreciate all of your insights and help. I agree that I shouldn't get a battery any heavier than necessary. I was thinking I would need a 12 volt, 35 A-Hr AGM battery. The newer lithium batteries also sound intriguing, since they apparently are lighter and run longer than the lead acid batteries. I am not a troller. I just want to go from place to place on bigger lakes and then work a shoreline casting and stripping or anchor up in areas and fish under an indicator. If I do troll, I prefer to do it with fins to work a relatively small area where fish seem to be in higher numbers.
Since you are new to the trolling motor game be aware that the Minn Kota motor you will be using consumes the same power on speed 1 as it does on speed 5. So if you are just moving from place to place use the higher speed, you won't save anything by going slow.

The 30# thrust Minn Kota runs too fast at low speed for effective trolling so it needs to be slowed down. A number of us are adding PWM controllers to our motors to give us infinite speeds from off to maximum. If this is something you might be interested in do some research or ask some questions and find out if it works for you. It will extend your AGM battery life enormously.
 

tippet

hardcore flyfishing addict
Ive and Haggis57, thank you for more insights. I like the shotgun shell box idea. It is enclosed and would keep the rain off of the battery and wire hookups, unlike some of the open topped battery containers I have seen on the internet. Is the plug that you put through the side of the shotgun shell box something that Minn Kota sells as an accessory?
Ive, the PWM controller is very intriguing. The thread that Haggis57 directed me to showed his setup with the PWM controller wired up in one of the pictures. I went to the Wireless Trolling Pro site and they even sell a wireless controller. I am going to look into that to see if a non-electrically gifted person like me can figure out how to set it up.

I am a bit embarrassed to ask this question, but do you guys leave the motor the way it comes so it pushes you forward, or do you turn the controller/top part around so that you go backward to facilitate trolling? Thanks again!
 

IveofIone

WFF Supporter
Ive and Haggis57, thank you for more insights. I like the shotgun shell box idea. It is enclosed and would keep the rain off of the battery and wire hookups, unlike some of the open topped battery containers I have seen on the internet. Is the plug that you put through the side of the shotgun shell box something that Minn Kota sells as an accessory?
Ive, the PWM controller is very intriguing. The thread that Haggis57 directed me to showed his setup with the PWM controller wired up in one of the pictures. I went to the Wireless Trolling Pro site and they even sell a wireless controller. I am going to look into that to see if a non-electrically gifted person like me can figure out how to set it up.

I am a bit embarrassed to ask this question, but do you guys leave the motor the way it comes so it pushes you forward, or do you turn the controller/top part around so that you go backward to facilitate trolling? Thanks again!
It can work however you want it to. The way it comes the motor is designed to push and the tiller faces forward. But it is a simple job to reverse the tiller if you want to pull rather than push.

With the PWM you don't even need to touch the motor-just set it straight ahead and steer with your oars or fins.
 

Sportsman

Active Member
Ive and Haggis57, thank you for more insights. I like the shotgun shell box idea. It is enclosed and would keep the rain off of the battery and wire hookups, unlike some of the open topped battery containers I have seen on the internet. Is the plug that you put through the side of the shotgun shell box something that Minn Kota sells as an accessory?
Ive, the PWM controller is very intriguing. The thread that Haggis57 directed me to showed his setup with the PWM controller wired up in one of the pictures. I went to the Wireless Trolling Pro site and they even sell a wireless controller. I am going to look into that to see if a non-electrically gifted person like me can figure out how to set it up.

I am a bit embarrassed to ask this question, but do you guys leave the motor the way it comes so it pushes you forward, or do you turn the controller/top part around so that you go backward to facilitate trolling? Thanks again!
We've posted everything you need to know, easy to look up. + &- from the motor goes to the controller. + & - from the battery also goes to the controller. WT Pro will custom length the cable: 6', 9' or 12'. Can't drop it overboard! Leave the motor in setting 5.
 

Haggis57

Active Member
Ive and Haggis57, thank you for more insights. I like the shotgun shell box idea. It is enclosed and would keep the rain off of the battery and wire hookups, unlike some of the open topped battery containers I have seen on the internet. Is the plug that you put through the side of the shotgun shell box something that Minn Kota sells as an accessory?
Ive, the PWM controller is very intriguing. The thread that Haggis57 directed me to showed his setup with the PWM controller wired up in one of the pictures. I went to the Wireless Trolling Pro site and they even sell a wireless controller. I am going to look into that to see if a non-electrically gifted person like me can figure out how to set it up.

I am a bit embarrassed to ask this question, but do you guys leave the motor the way it comes so it pushes you forward, or do you turn the controller/top part around so that you go backward to facilitate trolling? Thanks again!
The male / female plugs I used are common 12 volt marine/trailer plugs from a local automotive / marine supply store. Prices are CAD.

The link to the kayak steering was someone else's idea. However, I also added a wired PWM controller from Wireless Trolling Pro(WTP) and really like it. In fact, I was able to put the WTP controller and a fuse right in the same shell box with the battery. In the picture, the WTP control box is on the left side of the battery and the resettable fuse is sitting on top the control box. I store the wired hand controller in the shell box and just filed a small groove in the edge of the box for the control wire. The wiring is quite straight forward and the package from WTP comes with most of the crimp-on connectors you need. You will need a couple of more connectors if you us a socket on the battery box like I did. You can download WTP Installation instructions to see what's involved.

I have my motor set up to push me forward - I like to see where I'm going with under power. Trolling is done backwards with oars or fins and I leave the motor down.

As Ive pointed out, you don't have to worry about a fancy steering setup, especially to start with. These frameless boats are very responsive and dipping the tip of an oar in the water is fine for steering as well. I'm an under-employed engineer with too much time on his hands so I took the more complex approach!

Ken
 

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IveofIone

WFF Supporter
The male / female plugs I used are common 12 volt marine/trailer plugs from a local automotive / marine supply store. Prices are CAD.

The link to the kayak steering was someone else's idea. However, I also added a wired PWM controller from Wireless Trolling Pro(WTP) and really like it. In fact, I was able to put the WTP controller and a fuse right in the same shell box with the battery. In the picture, the WTP control box is on the left side of the battery and the resettable fuse is sitting on top the control box. I store the wired hand controller in the shell box and just filed a small groove in the edge of the box for the control wire. The wiring is quite straight forward and the package from WTP comes with most of the crimp-on connectors you need. You will need a couple of more connectors if you us a socket on the battery box like I did. You can download WTP Installation instructions to see what's involved.

I have my motor set up to push me forward - I like to see where I'm going with under power. Trolling is done backwards with oars or fins and I leave the motor down.

As Ive pointed out, you don't have to worry about a fancy steering setup, especially to start with. These frameless boats are very responsive and dipping the tip of an oar in the water is fine for steering as well. I'm an under-employed engineer with too much time on his hands so I took the more complex approach!

Ken
Thanks for taking the time and effort to do it right. As a frequent purveyor of YouTube I see so much half baked thrown together shit that is often accompanied by the rationale: "That's good enough".
 

tippet

hardcore flyfishing addict
Thanks to all who have provided me with so many insights and options. I really appreciate your experience, knowledge, and willingness to share them with me. I am now going to get this done with a lot of confidence and believe that you have saved me from making some mistakes that I likely would have made. Thanks again for your generosity!
Tight lines!!!
Steve
 

Haggis57

Active Member
A word to wise about Wireless Trolling Pro controllers, if you decide to go that route. The product is great and comes as a complete package. However, the company is essential a one man show and deliveries can drag into months, especially in the Spring. Order soon if you want to have it for this Spring/Summer!
 

Rocking Chair Fan

No more hot spotting
Okay, I got to ask something about statements above. Forgive my ignorance...

A battery will last just as long on speed 5 as speed 1. Is this only for PWM use or under normal use? If less volts is supplied by a battery with use of a PCM would it last longer on speed 1 vs. speed 5?
 

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