Need advice on placement of trolling motor and anchor on pontoon.

brkncly

New Member
Setting up my Dave Scadden Detonator Lo Pro X. So I picked up a Minn Kota C2 30 and a Scotty anchor mount. Try to come up with a clean way to mount everything. Do I mount the trolling motor on center, if so I don’t have enough room for my Scotty anchor mount. Do I mount my trolling motor off to one side and mount the Scotty anchor mount next to it? Don’t know if the pontoon will track better being set up dead center or if matters? If I do mount it to the side, thought about having the trolling motor to the left and anchor mount to the right since I’m right handed and will need the strength to pull up the anchor. Any ideas or advice would greatly be appreciated it.
 

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Guy Gregory

Active Member
Motor position doesn't matter much, as your pontoon won't track for crap anyway. At least mine don't. I'd put the motor to the left so I could steer with my left hand, and the anchor to the right, with a pulley setup guiding the anchorline from the mount to a spot forward ahead of the oars giving you purchase to haul anchor with your right arm. I've got a short left hand pull on my anchor for my 12' pontoon, and it's a PITA.

I'm sure there'll be other opinions. This one's mine, FWIW.
 

IveofIone

WFF Premium
I would go with none of the above. Instead buy the glue-on anchor mount and place it somewhere convenient to your dominate hand. Reaching backwards to steer is a bitch to begin with and pulling the anchor from the same place almost requires a contortionist. I am right handed so I placed the glue-on mount on my Predator on the left so I could get better leverage when pulling the anchor. You might be concerned about the anchor being mounted off center in a breeze but I haven't found that to be much of a problem, any boat with only one anchor is going to swing anyway.

You might want to read some of the many post about the advantages of using a PWM control on your motor and having the controls at your finger tips instead of twisting around in the seat to manage the motor.
 

cdnred

Active Member
Looking on Scadden's website at their Detonator Lo Pro X model, it shows a anchor mount mounted askew and off to the side of the motor mount. Not sure if there is a special adapter needed for this type of mount. You may try contacting Scotty to get their opinion, I'm sure they'd be able to come up with a solution for you..

This way you should be able to mount your motor closer to on center to give you better tracking. Tracking a pontoon isn't the best but it may help somewhat..

Either that or if your Scadden has a plate under the seat, you might be able to mount your anchor there..?

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brkncly

New Member
I would go with none of the above. Instead buy the glue-on anchor mount and place it somewhere convenient to your dominate hand. Reaching backwards to steer is a bitch to begin with and pulling the anchor from the same place almost requires a contortionist. I am right handed so I placed the glue-on mount on my Predator on the left so I could get better leverage when pulling the anchor. You might be concerned about the anchor being mounted off center in a breeze but I haven't found that to be much of a problem, any boat with only one anchor is going to swing anyway.

You might want to read some of the many post about the advantages of using a PWM control on your motor and having the controls at your finger tips instead of twisting around in the seat to manage the motor.
Can you please post a picture of your anchor set up?
 

Haggis57

Active Member
If you haven't already done so, I'd consider getting a swivel mount for your seat. Even being able to swivel 45 degrees will improve access to both the motor and the anchor lock. The mounting holes on all those seats are standard so any swivel mount will work.

I noticed from the pictures that you're using a frame on top of your Detonator. Not knowing the shape of the rear and side frame members is it possible to use a Scotty 242 Rail mount adapter along with the mount you have and mount the anchor lock behind the right-hand cargo bag. [Another alternative might be one of Scotty's rail mounts - 243, 245, 287.] This would certainly give you the ability to apply more force to the anchor rope than reaching all the way back to the motor mount.

I didn't have the option of a swivel seat on my Fish Cat Scout and quickly tired of twisting around to turn the motor on and for steering with the motor. I eventually added a PWM controller as Ive suggested and that is the slickest solution for the motor controls. However, a quick and easy intermediate solution is to add a cheap trolling motor foot switch onto one of your battery leads and keep the switch beside your seat to use as a hand control. Set your motor speed control to 2 or 3, then use the foot switch. This video provides some more details.

I use my fins for steering for short moves, but like to get my feet out of the water for longer relocates. I added a simple steering system that kayak guys use - less than $10 for the two pipe clamps and eye bolts from Lowes. I used small diameter (2mm?) paracord type line for my steering lines. I think the lines were from an old kayak foot pedal steering system. I ran the steering lines through the tie-down loops on either side of the seat cushion to keep them out of the way. Last year I zip-tied 24" pieces to 3/8" diameter tubing to the tie-down loops on my Scout. I have the steering lines run through this tubing so that the tubing acts as a sleeve. It reduces friction on the tie-down loops and seems to make the steering smoother. The sleeves also reduces the chance of the steering lines tangling with anything else beside or behind the seat. Lowe's & Home depot sell the clear tubing in bulk - I think it is used for water supplies to refrigerator ice makers and water dispensers. The trick to smooth steering is to keep pressure on both lines when changing direction.

Good luck.
Ken
 

up2nogood

Active Member
I just spent four days using my trolling motor on a pontoon boat. I kept the motor aimed straight and used my fins to steer. Works like a charm.
I’ve done that for years now with four different pontoon boats , what surprises me is how many do not , a good friend I finally got him doing that , and also going with a motor and battery. He relied strictly on the oars trolling , steering etc , of course the rod had to be in a holder . I have given some thought to frameless , but some of the issues above I’ll stick with the two framed Scaddens I have ,the Madison River , and the X5. Easy to mount rod holders , anchors , fish finders etc . Only reason I mention this stuff is for someone that’s on the fence about frameless or framed , only advantage to frameless is the portability , and weight , if that’s not a concern , which its not for me , then a framed boat for sure . As mentioned mount the motor with what Scadden offered , wear fins and there will be no issues , leave the motor straight and fish . As far as anchors , can’t be of any help . All my framed pontoon boats have had great anchor systems .
 

up2nogood

Active Member
Setting up my Dave Scadden Detonator Lo Pro X. So I picked up a Minn Kota C2 30 and a Scotty anchor mount. Try to come up with a clean way to mount everything. Do I mount the trolling motor on center, if so I don’t have enough room for my Scotty anchor mount. Do I mount my trolling motor off to one side and mount the Scotty anchor mount next to it? Don’t know if the pontoon will track better being set up dead center or if matters? If I do mount it to the side, thought about having the trolling motor to the left and anchor mount to the right since I’m right handed and will need the strength to pull up the anchor. Any ideas or advice would greatly be appreciated it.
Do you anticipate using an anchor a lot ? I too thought I needed an anchor early on , but never used one . Of course if you are floating rivers I suppose so . Not sure if I’d throw an anchor on a small pontoon boat in much of a current , but I don’t have a lot of experience on floating rivers in a one man inflatable.
 

Buzzy

Active Member
In your 4th and 5th photos you're showing a possible moungting of the anchor next to the motor. Your anchor line and motor shaft/propeller will be adjacent to each other and, if it were my boat, the anchor line would ALWAYS be wrapped up in the shaft and prop. I'm not saying you'd fail to retrieve the anchor before starting the motor, but the boat swining on the anchor line seems to me a recipe for conflict. (I can picture my kneeling on the seat trying to untagle the Tourette's mess.)

Good luck, share pictures when you get it set up and how things are working.
 

Haggis57

Active Member
I can picture my kneeling on the seat trying to untagle the Tourette's mess.
But that's just good practice time for when you loose track of your floating fly line before giving the motor a bump. No first hand experience of course, but I've heard of it happening to other people!
 

Haggis57

Active Member
Instead buy the glue-on anchor mount and place it somewhere convenient to your dominate hand.
It looks like you've got a couple of options you can try with the frame and your motor mount for your first couple of trips. On the other hand, once you've figured out where you want anchor mounts, rod mounts, etc., I wouldn't hesitate to go the Scotty Glue-on mount route that Ive suggests. I've added two Glue-on mounts to my Scout and am happy with both. There is good information on the NRS website if you scroll down and read the "Reviews" and "Questions" at the bottom.
 

brkncly

New Member
I like using an anchor for lake fishing, any wind out there and I’m all over the lake. I am adding a swivel seat. I notice that the frame has a built in anchor system but don’t like the fact eventually that the rope will wear and rub into the pontoon. Thought about maybe adding a piece of pipe to extend past the back or side so it won’t rub into the pontoon. Also I’ve also thought about putting it up front using the Scotty 245 but it to will eventually wear and rub into the pontoon. Thank you to all those that are giving me ideas and helping me!
 

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Haggis57

Active Member
If you want to move the anchor mount further outboard, how about using a portion of the original oar (minus the blade) running from the original oar pin back to the original oar holder. See Red in picture. Mount the appropriate Scotty mount onto to the oar. The pin going through the shaft will prevent the oar shaft from rotating. You could even substitute another piece of metal or plastic pipe to get the best fit with the Scotty mount. No mods to your new boat - just repurpose the factory installed fittings.
Ken
EDIT: Thinking about it, for sure the oar shaft will be too large for the Scotty mount. But I know that the Scotty rail mount will fit around 3/4" PVC pipe (I.D. is 3/4" but O.D. is just a little over 1"). You could just add coupling to the back of the tube so the fit is a bit more snug in back oar holder.

Oar Shaft.jpeg
 
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