Shank benefit versus hook cut off at the bend?

Stonefish

Triploid, Humpy & Seaplane Hater....Know Grizzler
Not sure what the shanks cost, but you can find 100 packs of 3407 DT’s for around $10 or so.
That’s a lot of cheap shanks.
I have them in size 4, 6 and 8 and they work well.
I never de-burr them and never had an issue with the loop getting damaged on my saltwater flies.
The fly is usually beach trashed long before that would ever happen.
SF
 

Buzzy

Active Member
I followed a recipe pretty closely: Two observations - I had no idea this Dolly Llama would be so large, and the second observation - I understand why they call that rear hook a stinger. They draw blood. I need a lot more practice tying and maybe I better think about a 10 wt to huck this thing! ;-)

IMG_0229.jpg
 

Eastside

Active Member
I followed a recipe pretty closely: Two observations - I had no idea this Dolly Llama would be so large, and the second observation - I understand why they call that rear hook a stinger. They draw blood. I need a lot more practice tying and maybe I better think about a 10 wt to huck this thing! ;-)

View attachment 296856
And a hard hat…
 

Clarkman

Huge Fly Guy
WFF Premium
I followed a recipe pretty closely: Two observations - I had no idea this Dolly Llama would be so large, and the second observation - I understand why they call that rear hook a stinger. They draw blood. I need a lot more practice tying and maybe I better think about a 10 wt to huck this thing! ;-)

View attachment 296856

Yeah, that looks like a 10wt fly.

I damn near got my first piercing on Sunday throwing a 7" articulated fly with a fish skull head for bull trout on the Metolius (we weren't planning on going there or I actually would have taken a 10wt).
 

g_smolt

Recreational User
I tied a big-ass fly...
2 observations from a fella with a years-long love-hate relationship with the lama...

1) JJ 's "Original Recipe" calls for the 3/8" 25gr cone, and for a reason - you REALLY need that weight to get the fly to move to its full potential.

2) After years of strip-leech and lama use for salmon and trout, I have come to the conclusion that the hook should be as close to the end of the materials as possible. I hang about 1/4" of hide past the bend of the hook, and sometimes it feels like the fish (mostly trout) are "combing" the ass-end of the fly with their teeth, not quite getting to the hook. Less of a problem with coho and kings, but it can still be a problem.

That being said, that fly will still fish great. If you have a pencil eraser ( or a bead, or a spare piece of large closed cell foam), do yourself a favor and cover the trailing hook with it while you are tying...it will save you from multiple stabbings.

And FWIW...in AK terms, that's a normal-sized fly. Big meals for big fish!
 

Buzzy

Active Member
2 observations from a fella with a years-long love-hate relationship with the lama...

1) JJ 's "Original Recipe" calls for the 3/8" 25gr cone, and for a reason - you REALLY need that weight to get the fly to move to its full potential.

2) After years of strip-leech and lama use for salmon and trout, I have come to the conclusion that the hook should be as close to the end of the materials as possible. I hang about 1/4" of hide past the bend of the hook, and sometimes it feels like the fish (mostly trout) are "combing" the ass-end of the fly with their teeth, not quite getting to the hook. Less of a problem with coho and kings, but it can still be a problem.

That being said, that fly will still fish great. If you have a pencil eraser ( or a bead, or a spare piece of large closed cell foam), do yourself a favor and cover the trailing hook with it while you are tying...it will save you from multiple stabbings.

And FWIW...in AK terms, that's a normal-sized fly. Big meals for big fish!
Thanks very much for sharing your wisdom to this old (Alaska) neophyte! The cone is a "medium" tungsten (Wapsi) so I need to find some 3/8" 25 gr cones. The pencil eraser trick: thanks!!
 
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g_smolt

Recreational User
If you can't find the goods at Avid Angler, Puget Sound Fly Co, Pacific Fly Fisher, Emerald Waters, Gig Harbor Fly Shop, or any of the other bitchin' Fly shops in the PNW, there's always AFFG.



 

Buzzy

Active Member
If you can't find the goods at Avid Angler, Puget Sound Fly Co, Pacific Fly Fisher, Emerald Waters, Gig Harbor Fly Shop, or any of the other bitchin' Fly shops in the PNW, there's always AFFG.



Thanks again! I hope those 40 kt winds in your forecast luff and you're able to go out and get some fall coho and char (those trout - OMG!).
 

Grayone

Fishin' to the end, Oc.P
WFF Premium
My issue when I clip hooks is that the cut end of the hook is sharp and tends to abrade the bucktail or (worse) the stinger loop. My solution has been to try to sheathe it in UV resin, but that creates a weird bump and it doesn’t adhere to the metal very well.

Ive thought about switching to shanks exclusively for that reason. But no one else seems to complain about this problem. Wondering if I’m doing something wrong?

Sorry for the semi-hijack, @Buzzy ! Seemed relevant enough and I’ve been waiting for a chance to ask wff about this!
Fish abrade my bucktail.
 

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