Built a rod this week


New Member
I posted this on my home waters but thought you guys might like to take a look as well.

Built a rod last week for my nephew. I tried some new things that turned out OK. I finally figured out how to get a low build (flat, hate the bubble look) with flex coat, added some hard wood to the cork and went back to my old way of adding feathers. The blank came in a kit that my brother got at Fishtec. 9’ #5. We loaded it with a WF6 and did a little lawn casting. I was amazed how well it performed. Great kit for the price.

I used 10 feathers. Dyed red G.P. tippet, 3 jungle cock, 4 peacock swords, and two macaw horns.


New Member
I got the tip from the top. The guy that gave me the pointers uses the regular flex coat and gets a finish with one coat. I use the light with two coats. The key is heat. He has an oven, I used light bulbs. I set up a rack of portable lights (the ones in the metal cones) and the heat from the light keep the epoxy from building into a blob. I was amazed on how well it works, it was the first time I have been happy with a finish since Rodon went out of business. I was going to try U-40 but now that I have flexcoat working I will stick with it. The part where I signed and feathered the rod has three coats, with out the heat the wrap would have been as big around as the grip.


Help! I'm trapped in a landlocked state.
Marty - would you mind sharing your method of doing feather inlays? The way I've always done it is to just use color preserver on a base wrap, use cp to set the feather over the wrap, one more coat of cp, and then finish. It works great but I'm curious if you have a different method.


New Member
No that is about the same way I do it. I started to place the feathers on the blank but went back to making a wrap the same color of the rod and then placing the feathers on the thread. By doing it this way I was able to get the first coat very level. I coated the thread then set the feathers. Each of the feathers I used were placed on the coated wrap then I used a bodkin to move the feathers in place. If they need more hold I would take a little flex coat on the bodkin and work it into the feather. After the first coat set I made sure there were no lose or high spots on the feathers and added a very thin second coat. Using the lights I was able to keep the second very thin and level. I then signed my name on top of the second coat and finished with a third coat. The heat from the lights was the key. I was able to make three coats look like one coat they way I used to do it.
Sweet I just order the same (I think) grip for a 5 wt I'm going to build. Quick question. Is the wood at the base of the cork grip a solid wood ring?

I'll need to increase the inner diameter of the recess and was wondering if I need to cut a custom drill bit or if I could just use a dremel with a barrel sander bit. I didn't order the suggested reel seat for it. :D
Nice looking rod. Finish can be one of the biggest pains until you get a method that works for you. If you get a chance, try the ThreadMaster Lite by Lamar Manufacturing. I personally haven't used it because I haven't built a rod since it came out (a few months ago), but there's a guy here at the shop that swears by it. He says it's very easy to get level (not wavy) long sections for inlays and inscriptions.
Marty very nice work I am going to be looking you & some othewrs up soon for advice on what to do with these old bamboo rods & parts as soon as I finish with doc. rilly do like your work and advice on teach. part of finishing thank you............Dan............fishon1505
Very nice work. I give Thread master two thumbs up. I've used it on the past 10 rods and it is awsome stuff. It has a longer working time then flex coat and forms about 95% less air bubbles. I have also used Lamars 15 minute epoxy which is a joy as well. Give their stuff a try.