Make your own 'Welded' Loops

SpeySpaz

still an authority on nothing
#16
yeh, I use a heat gun at low setting with a concentrator nozzle like Flyborg said.
welding kits including tubing etc are available at a number of flyshops now, many include instructions. If there's no strings containing links on this forum, there's a forum having to do with Spey (which shall remain nameless) where there are loopwelding strings roaring almost constantly and have links to suppliers. Or PM me.

It is fun too... me and a buddy got together recently when our home waters were blown out and spent an afternoon welding loops and making customized scando heads, and repairing some of our lines. then went down for some trycasting and went back to finetune some more. Many loops are hard to distinguish from a factory loop, that's how good you can get them.
 

Grayone

Fishin' to the end, Oc.P
#17
The Welding Revolution Has Started
I have been welding loop for while and it a very easy process for you to do.
The rules are simple watch the heat.
If you like here is link to some of my notes on the subject.
If you have any questions just post them.

Thats really cool.....thanks for the link..................I shall start experimenting!!!

Keith
 
#18
Thanks Guys

Open Core Loops

I used open core loops and fold over loops for years.
Found one problem is they would wick up water.
Once the core is wet it dose not stretch as well as dry one.
The water doses not seem to compress and it will cause the core to separate from the coating.
This will form cracks and once the coating is cracked you get a hinge.
Mono loops are good if you can seal the bitter end of the line to stop them from wicking up water also.
So I went with the welded loop.
:thumb:
 
#23
for welding your own loops you need clear because you need to watch your line melt.
Radioshack has tons of shrink tube in clear/black/red/yellow.

It is also very very cheap.
I realize that. I just thought it was worth mentioning that there are other colors available for other applications.

BEST WALKTHROUGHS FOR THIS: http://www.salmonfishingforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1536

AND SLIDEHOW HERE:

http://www.hooked4life.ca/glsteelhead/Making_Welded_Loops.html
 

Preston

Active Member
#24
A few notes about braided mono loops. I have used such loops for many, many years without a failure. They have worked well for steelhead fishing and for such saltwater species as dorado and sailfish. I've often heard it suggested that the mono braid overlap the line by as much as nine inches but have consistently overlapped mine by as little as three inches (again with two monofilament nail knots) and, as I said above, have never experienced a failure. I have never used any glue, Goop, Aquaseal, etc. and have some connections that have been used for twenty to twenty-five years without any apparent problems.
 

Ian Broadie

Flyfishing is so "Metal"
#25
I followed the steps at this site http://www.nwsalmonflyguild.org/inst/Welding a Loop.pdf and over the course of a weekend I wound up chopping up an 8/9 delta spey, 9/10 windcutter, a SA XLT, an Ariflo NW Skagit head, and repaired the broken loop on my CND Skagit head. All of the loops held as advertised and it would give the impression that I actually know what I'm doing.

The only one of the lines that didn't fit what I was looking for was the XLT but that's more because the line is currently beyond my casting skill than the fact that I cut it at the back and welded the loop.

It's kinda cool being able to quickly change from a Skandi head to a delta spey in about 5 minutes using the same running line. :beer2:
 

Mark Speer

It's all good.....
#26
Is there a specific diameter shrink tube that you use for the different line weights? For 8 weight line would you use the 1/16" or the 3/32"?
 

Mark Speer

It's all good.....
#27
My loop failed were the line and loop butted together at. I noticed a difference on a cast and stripped it in and found the failure. I will continue to pack them for emergancies, but I think I'm going to try the welded.

A few notes about braided mono loops. I have used such loops for many, many years without a failure. They have worked well for steelhead fishing and for such saltwater species as dorado and sailfish. I've often heard it suggested that the mono braid overlap the line by as much as nine inches but have consistently overlapped mine by as little as three inches (again with two monofilament nail knots) and, as I said above, have never experienced a failure. I have never used any glue, Goop, Aquaseal, etc. and have some connections that have been used for twenty to twenty-five years without any apparent problems.
 
#28
If you loop is pulling apart look at your Shrink tube sizing.
You will want the shrirk tube to have a interference fit over the loop.
It should fit snugly without wrinkling the shirk tube.

The shrink tube is a holding fixture much like a vise it will force the plasma from the Parent material to flow together.
If the shrink tube is to large you will not get a good bond and if to tight the heat transfer will cause core separation. The lord only knows how long it took for me to figure it out.
Now I am welding lines together instead of using needle splices.
Takes time.


:confused:
 
#29
I been using Aquaseal spliced core loops the last couple of years as my prefered loop for my fly lines. Only drawback is the loop can't be made with mono core or intermediate fly lines, you need a braided core, on these lines I still use Gudebrod Braided Mono outer spliced loops. Some of the reasons I like the Aquaseal spliced core loops better than the welded or outer spliced braid loops are: Slides through the guides the best with out any hanging and is the most flexible, welded loops are a bit stiff at the welded area. You are pulling core to core, which protects the outer finish and less likely to crack, which the welded and outer spliced braid loops tend to do over time at their base. I think they will last the longest and are the strongest. You are using the chinese finger trap principle, but on the inside of the fly line. I use Aquaseal as my core glue and as my loop stiffener, some use Zap-A-Gap but I find it is too stiff. Aquaseal when dry has about the same flexibility as a fly line and is very durable. Jack Cook has the best step by step tutorial I have seen. I wish factory loops were made this way with a very light finish on the loop. They would be less stiff at the base of the loop and the loop it self would colapse a little easier to slide through the guides better. When I loop one of my loops to a factory loop, the factory loop hangs up a lot more in the guides than my loops do. Well I'am done rambling, just a few things I've discovered about fly line loops the last couple of years.
 
#30
Gary Anderson, Anderson Custom Rods, in southern Oregon has offered to teach us how to make welded loops. We are heading up there soon to get a hands on demo from him and Steve Godshall.

We have been making our own custom braided mono loops for some time but the welded loops seem much cleaned and Gary says they are much faster after you get on to it.

For Blue Water we might still use braided loops though.......
 

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