for any of the freestones...foamy chernobyl type stuff with rubberlegs work really good in all colors and sizes #4-12...for tailwaters and spring creeks i like more natural looking patterns like stalcups, daves, and rainy's in sizes #6-12...go to any of the major fly vendor sites (montana fly, rainy's, solitude) and look for a pattern you can tie quickly and effectively...then tie a lot of them ( i tend to lose a lot of hoppers tryin to stick um tight to the undercuts and bushes)
This guy slayed 'em in Yellowstone last year. Tan, yellow and light green. However, we found that beetles were even more effective than hoppers. You could tie on a hopper with a beetle dropper and the beetle would get taken more often.
Those hopper cutters are the sh!t! I'm waiting to get my tying room set back up, after relinquishing it to become the baby's nursery, to buy that set. A lot of extra work was done with the foam to get it to look that good, but I have seen some that were just cut out and put together and they still make pimp ass hopper patterns!
At least for the deer hair head hoppers, you can always do the Whitlock trick and Zap-a-Gap a sprig of Mason hard nylon into the bottom of the head to work as a weed guard. I imagine you could poke a small hole in the foam and do the same thing.
One thing to keep in mind when tying some of the foam patterns is that if you tie them in smaller sizes 14-18, make sure not to make too many or too tight of thread wraps around the foam. I found that in the smaller sizes if I tightened the thread too tight or used too many wraps than it decreased the floatability of the foam and I had to continually dress them with floatant. However, I also found that trout like sunken hoppers nearly as much as ones floating on the surface. Also, if you only tie a couple colors (yellow and tan) it helps to have a couple markers with you to "match the hatch." The prismacolor markers in light green, dark green and brown came in very handy.