Pics of otto's canoe


New Member
Thanks to everyone for your responses and input to my questions.
Attached are a few pics of it on the trailer.

I already replaced the original thwart and added some "salvaged" oar-lock sockets, I don't like the way it turned out. I'll leave it as is until this winter, I plan to replace the thwart with one made from composite decking material (probably a 2 x 6) and then mounting the 3 position oar-lock sockets available from Hyde.

Yes I know there's weeds hanging off of my trailer... I take it back and forth to the same pond, if I'm going somewhere else I wash it off so I don't spread some wierdo weed around!

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Jim Wallace

Smells like low tide.
Nice looking canoe. I suggest that you get another battery so you'll have two for when you go solo, and put it forward of the front seat to balance the boat. Then you won't have to worry so much about running out of juice and paddling it any distance by yourself. (Worked for me).

Also, I have the same Trailex canoe trailer, and I would advise that you pad your bunks if you drive it over rough roads a lot. Those bunk arms are only carpet over a wood block, and the torsion bar suspension on that thing (no springs) isn't soft enough to prevent your hull from getting hammered on bumpy roads. My Sportspal canoe was aluminum, and it suffered metal fatigue on the spots where it contacted the rear bunk arms (due to more weight back there from the way I had it set up)) from the vibration of all the jostling it took on bumpy logging roads.

A tear developed in the hull on one side of my canoe before I became aware of this problem. A friend who used to be an airframe mechanic helped me patch the tear (he had the tools and the skill and did most of the work!). Then I padded the bunk arms with several layers of 5mm neoprene from an old wetsuit, and slid them back a bit to get the contact point away from the fatigued areas.

Your hull is fiberglass/composite(?) so it may not be affected the same. (Just sharing some of my experience with that trailer).


New Member
When I'm traveling any distance in (outside of the neighborhood pond or lake) I' empty everything out other than the slatted floorboards and seats so I dont have the extra weight and stuff bouncing around in the canoe underneath the cover.
I have noticed that if you leave it sitting on the trailer for an extended period of time with everything in it and the flip it over you can see where it rets on those bunks.
Bunk re-hab is on my to-do list since the carpet you spoke of is wearing out, I also need to do some plastic fender re-hab.
I have noticed that at certain speeds on the highway it does get a little jinky.
As far as I'm concerned it still beats my old coleman or float-tube.

I did tear apart the bottom-end of my trolling motor and am waiting for the re-build kit in the mail, cleaning things up in there made a world of difference asfar as performance is concerned (works like new).
As far as batteries go, I now have 2 since I purchased a new one this year to replace my old one (wet cell from Gi-Joes), I thought the old one was kaput but it turns it was the motor.
The first battery I purchased was a made in china piece-o-crap AGM that was supposed to be the best thing going (according to Cabelas)... I returned it because it wouldnt hold a charge. New primary battery is an exide/Walmart that works like a champ for less than half the price of the Cabelas battery.

Jim Wallace

Smells like low tide.
Sounds like you got 'er all figured out, Otto.
Those AGMs are expensive for sure. Bummer that you got a bad one. I bought one of those Cabela's "made in China" ones, too, but it still holds a good charge (almost three years old now). I use it in my johnboat, since my Sportspal has become playground equipment for cats. I have some warped ideas for using the ol' hulk in a junk-art sculpture, with a junk-art fish pedaling a bike mounted inside the thing near the stern, and maybe a junk-art frog playing a ukelele sitting in the bow. Something along the theme of "A Frog Needs a Canoe Like a Fish Needs Bicycle." :rofl:

I, too, cleaned out the motor insides on my MinnKota 30# thrust after I had used it in the salt and brackish estuaries for about 2 1/2 years, and I think that saved it from an early grave. I was lucky and didn't need a rebuild kit. I just use it in lakes, now, on my mini-drifter.

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