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Dry Box(es) for Cataraft

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4K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  Steelheader69 
#1 ·
I've assembled and done a majority of my accessory outfitting for my 14' cataraft. What I'm focused on currently is dry box or dry storage options. A search here found a dozen or so threads where dry boxes were discussed. I sent some PMs to folks with setups that really sounded good. I've got sets of saddle bags that are water resistant (read: water collection system) and of course space is limited. I'm looking for any input you might have on dry storage solutions, be they small, low profile under seat or bay filling dry boxes. A combination of these types will likely give the best versitility on my boat. Thanks for your input. Ed
 
#2 ·
I am reading a Whitewater Rafting book to better understand river running and there's a picture of a guy entering a drop with 2 ammo cans attached across the dual frame rails just behind the seat. Heavier than plastic but rugged and waterproof, $7-$15 each
 
#3 ·
Brian, I dig ammo cans for many reasons. I want, or think I need, a larger container that will sit behind my seat and allow for lockable larger storage items. My deck platform is about 32" between the pontoons and I'd like one that filled that space but was about 15" x 15" in the other two dimensions, kept water out and locked (read: put spare rod tubes, clothing and other items in here and out of the way). So far the only thing I've not really liked about the cataraft is the lack of really good places to put things. I have some mesh nets beneath the seats and the saddle bags. I guess I'm greedy and want more. Plus a lockable storage box would sure be nice for those spare rod tubes.
 
#4 ·
Brian,
What I've found to work very well are dry bags. They come in a variety of sizes, easily bungee to anything, will float if they come loose, and can be stuffed or attached to virtually anything. They even can double as floatation for people or rafts. Clear ones let you see quickly whats inside too, and the bags add little weight.
Roy
 
#7 ·
Michael, thank you. I've considered a pelican or similar case but the fit into the space between the pontoons and the front to back dimension I'm hoping to find has yet to be revealed in a pelican case. I'll look at your recommended model and browse some more. I think you are right about the toughness of the cases, we use them for many applications at work and in the field.
 
#8 ·
While not specific towards your need for a larger dry box, I have plans for mounting a few smaller pelicans on the side rails. A good place for utility storage while fishing and a bit more handy than the bags, I think. Will probaby do both the bags and smaller boxes.

For work purposes I have a few of the large pelicans. Not sure I'd go that route even if there was an appropriately sized one. More effort to open / close (multiple latches) and too heavy, IMO. Not to mention expensive.
 
#11 ·
Chris, good point on the multiple smaller boxes at right hand points for smaller stuff. I agree that the larger pelicans are four or five latches that might become a hassle as much as I'm always fiddling with stuff. A truck box is really in my head but finding one that will span the top of the tubes but have the narrower lower portion has so far proven unavailable "off the rack". That might be a point of consideration as you build up your cataraft. A wider tube placement makes a truck box a much more plausible fit. (Not sure if waterproof enough is a suggestion that I'll have this bad boy upside down a lot or something...) I've got a couple of dry bags that can be stuffed then put into the mesh cargo nets that are beneath the seats currently. Just finding my way through this project one thought at a time.

Derek, good point on a fabrication class, and yes, aluminum is better because I'm such a weak rower anyway. Less weight is better! I have been pondering a road trip to see how removable someone's drift boat storage boxes might be, but I fear that the local law enforcement would not be in approval of my project. What I really covet though, Derek, is the way you can store the backup rods in tubes in your dry storage. I've tackled and somewhat solved rigged rods, standing platforms, trailer, rollers, lean bars, saddle bags and other such things but the longer storage currently is missing.

I've pondered coolers too, but at only 32" between my tubes and then a loss of up to 2" of thickness per side for the cooler insulation that puts you down to 28" side to side. Even 9' rods in tubes would have to be angled as they are all closer to 30" in length. Angled tubes will fit fine, but it will complicate how neatly and how much other stuff you can stow.

Dang Chris, that truck bed job box sure could be cool. Maybe they make a shallow one with no middle drop section. I could put it all the way tube to tube and then use the dead space under that box for stuffing dry bags...interesting...

Thank you both. By the way, any chance of fishing soon? This cubicle sucks.
 
#14 ·
#19 ·
Ed, Much ado about nothing! A single sheet of A-C 1/4'' plywood, some epoxy and fiberglass cloth and a weekend's work and you can build the dry box of your dreams that exactly matches the shape of your boat.

Just by coincidence I am refurbing a similar plywood box that has been in my pickup bed for 16 years. It still looks good and is still waterproof but needs a fresh coat of paint. I can't imagine a boat box getting a fraction of the hard use it has received. If a pram can be built out of those materials and last for decades you can bet a well built dry box with probably out last your boat.

Ive
 
#20 ·
Wow, lots of options. Some I've seen, others are outside the box thinking and I really like that. I'll send my drawing to a couple DB shops and check the links provided here and in PM. Ive, how much do you think a fiberglass and epoxy covered box would weigh? I've got the tools to custom cut the plywood I guess but I'm not versed in the arts of glass and epoxy. I've done some epoxy work on other things though. What about the costs of plywood, glass, epoxy and then hardware? If you were to have to rebuild your full truck box today how much do you think it would cost you?
(small wheels turning inside my brain nugget thinking that a trip to the wide open spaces of Ione should be in my future...)
 
#21 ·
Mumbles, I'm no expert but I like the "concept" of dry boxes but in reality, they have some disadvantages. If you have the coin and can afford the weight, they work great under a seat or as a bench seat. But getting custom boxes are spendy unless you can do it yourself. Plus, unlike a dry bag that can flex, dry boxes are rigid. Keep exploring ideas though, you may run into a winner that nobody has thought of yet.
 
#22 ·
Ed, the action packers work great. My whitewater frame was designed to use those specifically. They are great boxes to use, and can be made pretty watertight with the right seals. Plus you can lock them down as well.

This is an old pic. But this shows my old Ocelot with my whitewater frame on it. Did some quick mods to it to make it fishable fast. If you look, you can see one of the action packers on the left side of boat. A second one fit perfectly on the right side where the rods are in the picture.



Also, you should find dryboxes that'll work great with your frame. They do have many advantages. You won't need to worry about flex, etc. They will nicely sit in the frame crossbars while they do the twisting. If you look in the frame above, where the bike is sitting would fit two dryboxes. You can take one of your seat benches (maybe the front passenger) and subsitute it for a drybox with either cushion seat (full pad that covers full box) or have a swivel seat mounted to top and sealed to stay water tight. It's much easier to do a quick pop of the secure locks to get into drybox then unwrap, rewrap a drybag IMHO. I LOVED my drybags, but mostly for stashing gear I didn't need right away and could lash to my frame for long multi day whitewater trips.

Another thing to consider is military tool boxes and rocket launcher holders (as in the multipack holders). They are big, watertight, and will fit under your seat. They're like monster pelican cases, just cheaper for their size. If I had a pic of one, I'd show you. But we used to use the ammo cans alot. They worked well, and lashed easily to the frames. They really aren't that heavy if you find some of the newer ones. They're a thin walled steel usually.

I'd stay away from doing a custom dry box. You have a frame that adjusts as you wish. Buy a factory built one from Cascade, NRS, etc. Your cross bars will adjust. Plus, they sell special straps that are made to lash onto your crossbar and tether over a drybox.

OH, and lastly. You can buy coolers and do the same thing. Just add the insulation type foam to the area that makes contact to make a seal. We used to buy the big igloos and put the insulating foam on the top and bottom of the area that made contact. Once you hit the locks, it usually sealed it right up.
 
#23 ·
If you want a custom box fabed as in your sketch, talk to Dave Nissen in eastern washington http://www.madcatr.com/dryboxes.php . I have one of his dry boxes and they are top notch and price competative with the other major brands, I will bet $100 that recretec prices are significantly higher than Dave for a custom job.

I also use 20 mm ammo cans slung between frame bars with ammo can drop bags that Jan at stitch n stuff makes (great products labeled rocket box drop bags on her website) http://www.stitchesnstuff91.com/dropbags.html

We also have a frontier play aluminum dry box and I can't recommend them for several reasons, wouldn't buy one again.

On the cheap I found a couple plastic boxes similar to aciton packers but with stiffer plastic and an integrated rubber lid gasket. I have seen them marketed by Coleman and they were about $30 and a great size for between frame bars, a littlie narrower than action packers. I have used this plastic box to carry my dutch oven gear for several week long trips. Here is a link http://www.amazon.com/Storage-Box-Green-15-3-30/dp/B000FNSY5U you can trim the little outside tabs off under the lid on either side with a angle grinder/cutter easiliy so it drops lower and more snug between the bars. One of the real great things about these compared to action packer boxes, is if you sit on top of the box there is no deformation, the plastic lid is very stiff and has a latice of structural stiffeners under that really make it solid.

Another really great option if you can find one local (shipping cost is super high) are these aluminum military surplus medical first aid boxes. I don't have one, but have a friend that uses them and they are gerat, except a lot of latches:
http://store.colemans.com/cart/medical-transport-chest-us-gi-aluminum-used-damaged-p-1280.html
 
#24 ·
One of the real great things about these compared to action packer boxes, is if you sit on top of the box there is no deformation, the plastic lid is very stiff and has a latice of structural stiffeners under that really make it solid.
Yup, that's true. But in my frame (and all my friends who did the same) we had them right next to our seats will all the essential stuff we wanted asap. So never stacked on top of it, stored gear, sat on, etc. The ones in the picture were probably 14 years old at the time. Still were like new (just sun bleached). But yeah, if you want to sit on them, not a good idea.
 
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