Pontoon catastrophe!!

#31
Part was recieved today. And it turned out to be a very easy part to replace!! I will be contacted NFO tomorrow though. I need to order a spare one of these for my emergency kit.
 

Tool Fly

Active Member
#32
Part was recieved today. And it turned out to be a very easy part to replace!! I will be contacted NFO tomorrow though. I need to order a spare one of these for my emergency kit.
Good to hear you got it fixed. Does the metal crossbar somehow retract so that you can put in the new pin without having to remove the hard rubber mount attached to the pontoon? Need to look into putting together an emergency kit myself for my WM...
 

scottybs

Active Member
#33
Easy fix, my Scadden Renegade has the same piece. My metal spindle pulled out of that plastic housing. Just replaced it 2 days ago. Order a whole new piece oar mount from them.
1.)Remove the 2 outside screws.
2.)Remove the black cap from each housing.
3.)Take a needlenose plier to grab the plastic axel and pull to remove.
4.)After you have removed the axel from the new piece. Take the new oar mounting spindle and insert onto original boat mount.
5.)This is the tricky part, reinsert axel back into oar mount being careful that the 2 screw holes line back up. We put a basketball inflating nipple into the whole to help act as a guide for proper screw alignment.
6.)Screw in screws and your back in business.

I would also recommend ordering 2 extra oar mounts and take them apart for the the parts and pack them in your repair bag for on the river. It was a SOB trying to row a duck taped oar mount down the Madison last summer! Good luck.

-Scott
 
#34
Good to hear you got it fixed. Does the metal crossbar somehow retract so that you can put in the new pin without having to remove the hard rubber mount attached to the pontoon? Need to look into putting together an emergency kit myself for my WM...
There actually wasn't a metal cross bar on mine. The only metal piece is the pin that the oar sits on when installed. The pins base is made of plastic which slips over a plastic crossbar that allows it to be mounted to the pontoon. I really enjoy the frameless feature of my pontoon but I will think twice before I float moving water with it because of this... At least till I get my emergency kit complete.
 
#35
Thank you for posting this James. I just ordered an extra our mount from Scadden. They don't sell just the pieces, they could only sell me the entire kit including the part that is already glued to the boat. I too like my frameless boat (Assault XX) but have been a little leary of the oar pin mounts. I should have my power stroke oars in a few days, and the extra torque those will provide will test the pin mounts much more than my cheap standard aluminum oars.
 
#36
Thank you for posting this James. I just ordered an extra our mount from Scadden. They don't sell just the pieces, they could only sell me the entire kit including the part that is already glued to the boat. I too like my frameless boat (Assault XX) but have been a little leary of the oar pin mounts. I should have my power stroke oars in a few days, and the extra torque those will provide will test the pin mounts much more than my cheap standard aluminum oars.
I have yet to contact them to purchase a spare pin. Hope you don't mind the question, but what did the spare part cost?
 

Ed Call

Well-Known Member
#37
I have a lightweight pontoon boat with a similar design (fold up and down) with the oars and oar locks. While it works great for still water fishing, and I'm sure it would be fine for a vast majority of moving water, I am kind of partial to a traditional oar tower and oar lock. I'm thinking hard of getting a Water Master and putting a small, lightweight frame that can be taken off when on still waters and putting on while on the river. I much prefer Cataract Mini mags as opposed to the cheap aluminum oars that come with many boats.
BDD, check with Ed Call. He had a small frame made for his WM Kodiak but I am not sure if he still has it.
I do... Maybe trade bait for a simple lightweight frame for my 12' scadden?
 

Jerry Daschofsky

Moderator
Staff member
#39
My .02. with the way a WM is designed I thik it would be hard to paddle through rapids verse rowing. In my experaince a WM with no rocker design are bit slower to respond to an oar stroke then a pontoon or raft with a kick or rocker design built in.

Some might find this exciting, not me ....
Actually, all a rocker design does for you is make you be able to swing boat faster (turn it left or right), but won't help you pull out of a pocket faster if you put your boat into the wrong line in a run. What helps you maneuver the boat is oar length vs the amount of weight you have in boat (how close to overloading the weight capacity of your boat). My 16' cataraft empty handled faster then my 8' pontoon did empty (empty I mean just rower in the boat). But the 8' toon was at max capacity with me on it versus the 16' which was WELL below max capacity. On the smaller boats, I've found that flatter hull works better then a full rocker. Why? Try digging the oars in on them. I've rowed a ton of full rocker vs flatter hulled pontoons, rafts, etc over the years. Those full rocker small boats will rock back and go a few inches per oar stroke (since part of your stroke is lost on the boat rocking backwards). Where the flatter hulled boats will be a little sluggish, but you gain more ground per oar stroke.

Onto rowing in general, you should have your boat lined up on it's line well in advance anyways then correctional oar through.
 

1morecast

Active Member
#40
Actually, all a rocker design does for you is make you be able to swing boat faster (turn it left or right), but won't help you pull out of a pocket faster if you put your boat into the wrong line in a run. What helps you maneuver the boat is oar length vs the amount of weight you have in boat (how close to overloading the weight capacity of your boat). My 16' cataraft empty handled faster then my 8' pontoon did empty (empty I mean just rower in the boat). But the 8' toon was at max capacity with me on it versus the 16' which was WELL below max capacity. On the smaller boats, I've found that flatter hull works better then a full rocker. Why? Try digging the oars in on them. I've rowed a ton of full rocker vs flatter hulled pontoons, rafts, etc over the years. Those full rocker small boats will rock back and go a few inches per oar stroke (since part of your stroke is lost on the boat rocking backwards). Where the flatter hulled boats will be a little sluggish, but you gain more ground per oar stroke.

Onto rowing in general, you should have your boat lined up on it's line well in advance anyways then correctional oar through.
Jerry, my point exactly. When running white water I like a boat that does turn easily. Even after picking my line I like a boat that responds with a quick dip with an oar. Just my .02.
 

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