How much weight do you put into it

This is a real beginner's question. When you want to add weight to a fly, how do you decide how much to add?

I am particularly interested in responses when using (non lead) wire or various weighted eyes. I know the answer may vary between different types of flies, so responses that encompass different types would be useful.

This question has bothered me for a while because I seem to simply wrap wire on the hook with no clear idea what I should be targeting and how to tell when I get there.

Joe Smolt

Rob Blomquist

Formerly Tight Loops
Its kind of a guess your best thing.

When I am weighting flies, I think about what I want that fly to do. Is it something to tumble along the bottom? Is it just something to sink on its own?

I really prefer to just use a small bead on the fly or no weight at all so the fly can act more like a bug would, trapped in the currents.

For most of my fishing, I don't use weight, I use sparser patterns to get deeper in heavy water. Then I have some bead head flies for when I do want some weight.

The only flies that are normally tied with weight are bunny flesh flies, chironomids and clousers. Beadhead buggers are not uncommon, nor are some of the beadhead nymphs. So I say go light, and all will be well.

One thing is for sure, overweight a fly, and you will know it when you cast it.



Workin in a sweet mullet
I weight all of my steelhead flies (except dry-flies and grease-liners) using lead eyes. I tie three or four of each pattern with two different size eyes, and its an on-the-water call on which one gets used. I want the flies to sink about the same as my tip, to where the fly stays in the "zone" for as long as possible. Deep runs = more heavily weighted flies.

I started a month ago experimenting with tube flies, and I found that it is way cool. I generally add 2 6/32 oz. gold beads in front of the flies, but can very easily take one bead off or add another fairly quickly.

Tube flies rock:thumb
I think alot of it would have to do with current speed and time of year. if it's winter time I put as much as 10 turns of lead on a fly. summer time flys only five turns. this seems to work pretty good for me.
got any patterns? I bought a tube vise attachment and tried it a little. mostly what I tied was polar bear hair flies for salt water for some buddies to try.longears


The dumb kid
longears: how mich did you pay for a tube fly attatchment? it seems "silly" to me, i just use a paperclip in the vise and it works fine. does a actual thing help though? as for tube patterns, here are my favs

contrasting palmered marabou
wolly buggers
palmered bunny!

with the WB i just palmer the tail and tie it like a normal bugger. i have found them to be deadly effective in lakes for those nipping trout because the hook is set back farther in the tail

IMO, when fishing for steelhead, a heavier sinktip is more critical than a heavy weighted fly. The heavier the fly the less natural action it gives and the more snags you will encounter. 9 times out of 10 your fly will snag before your sinktip does.
Use a heavier density-compensated sinktip first before changing to a heavier fly. This rule-of-thumb works great for me and other pros that I know of, especially for Steelhead.
Good luck!

Peter ><>

Mark 12:30-31

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