[Troutlife]

I have been reading through a lot of the Stillwater threads and have noticed chironomids seem to be very popular. I will do some research of my own and watch a few videos but was wondering if the WFF had any helpful tips. I fish Stillwater a lot (given how much I get to fish, which isn't very often) and usually troll or strip a wooly bugger or similar fly. Also, chironomids look easy to tie and I was wondering if someone would be gracious enough to share a step by step. Thanks!

 

[Irafly]

You are about to open up the man hole cover and discover that there is a whole other world down there. This site will yield an insane amount of information.

Start with slip indicators, I use these: http://www.floatsunlimited.com/p100rw-25.html Dual color helps you see micro changes better as does the pear shape.

Next, invest in some good fluorocarbon tippet material.

Learn to tie a non-slip loop knot.

Invest in a cheap pair of hemostats that you can clip to your fly so you can check for the bottom depth exactly.

Tie your patterns with tungsten beads so they hang better in the water.

Tie your pattern either with UV resin or with a clear scud back wrapped over it to make them last longer.

You will want to tie a chromie and you will want to tie a pattern with black body and red ribbing. Those two patterns will be the best start.
http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/yet-another-chironomid.117172/
http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/modified-bomber-gunslinger-chironomid.116276/

Find an open seat with someone who knows the game.

As you continue the process, please feel free to ask more specific questions.

 

[Ricardo O.]

Calling @Irafly and @troutpocket ...

 

[dust in the wind]

Here is a few I just tied up for visuals...

 

[Squamishpoacher]

Buy a throat pump and learn how to use it. It's essential to have so you can tell what colour and size the fish are on.

 

[IveofIone]

Ahh, yes-bobber fishing! I caught my first fish on a bobber in July of 1946. It's still fun.

 

[troutpocket]

http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/unweighted-bomber-chironomid.116962/

http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/claret-frostbite-chironomid.116529/

http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/kranigers-two-tone-nymph.116190/

http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/gut-bomb-sbs.108554/#post-1141055

http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com/forum/threads/stillwater-nymph-jig.116209/#post-1141888

 

[Bones]

My vote is for throat pumps and fish finders.

Identify depth, what are fish keying in on, chironomid size and then learn the lake hatch timing.

Catch a couple kick trolling. Pump the THROAT, not stomach, match the size of average chironomid (most likely a chromie or blood worm larvae) and look at your fish finder for the depth fish are hanging out at. Set your indicator. Or you can use the hemostst trick and work your way up. I prefer a fish finder.

Learn to time the hatch. There are morning-mid morning periods that tend to fish better.

Rule out daphnia. If stomach full of daphnia, fish leeches. Most fisherman get hung up here. If fish are keyed in on daphnia, fishing a chironomid feels futile.

That’s a basic blueprint/shortcut to fishing chironomids.

 

[Robert Engleheart]

@ Irafly, thanks for the indicator tip, I don't do much indicator fishing where I need a slip indicator but will need some for BC this year; I don't like the Frog Hair brand, do the ones you reference come with what's needed for slip setup or is that a separate item?
Found a great price on fluorocarbon tippet, Fenwick; $4.95 for 50 yds.
https://www.backcountry.com/fenwick...6RmVud2ljayB0aXBwZXQ6MToyOkZlbndpY2sgdGlwcGV0

 

[troutpocket]

@ Irafly, thanks for the indicator tip, I don't do much indicator fishing where I need a slip indicator but will need some for BC this year; I don't like the Frog Hair brand, do the ones you reference come with what's needed for slip setup or is that a separate item?
Found a great price on fluorocarbon tippet, Fenwick; $4.95 for 50 yds.
https://www.backcountry.com/fenwick...6RmVud2ljayB0aXBwZXQ6MToyOkZlbndpY2sgdGlwcGV0

In my experience, not all fluoro is created equal. Over the years I have stockpiled the good stuff when I find a good sale. I trust Scientific Anglers, Airflo Sightfree, Rio Fluoro Flex, and Seaguar 100% fluoro tippet material. One brand to avoid is Berkley!

And yes, those slip indicators come with the peg to set depth.

 

[dust in the wind]

In my experience, not all fluoro is created equal. Over the years I have stockpiled the good stuff when I find a good sale. I trust Scientific Anglers, Airflo Sightfree, Rio Fluoro Flex, and Seaguar 100% fluoro tippet material. One brand to avoid is Berkley!

And yes, those slip indicators come with the peg to set depth.

I agree!
A nice flyline and good tippet might be the most important items we bring to the water. Dont skimp on these items.

 

[Salmo_g]

Why fluorocarbon?

 

[dust in the wind]

Why fluorocarbon?

I am not a pro like some of the guys here but I use 3x flouro and dont think twice. This lets you get them in quick.

 

[junkie]

Why fluorocarbon?

Sinks faster (denser) and is stronger in smaller diameters. It is less visible in clear water, also.

 

[Lue Taylor]

6X,7X, 8X Fluoro in the correct length will catch more big fish just can't Tuna hook set. Size do matter.

 

[troutpocket]

Why fluorocarbon?

Breaking off is a pet peeve. I can use 8-10 lb test fluoro (2x or 3x in the brands I use) without noticing a decrease in takes and I very rarely break off big fish. Honestly it's been many years since I tried nylon and maybe I should, just to see if it makes a difference. But when I was first learning Stillwater, my tippet was 5x frog hair mono. I broke off every trip if the fish were >16". Not that I broke off every decent fish, but regularly. What I have learned since going with heavy fluoro is which hooks I can trust to not bend out.

 

[Irafly]

Breaking off is a pet peeve. I can use 8-10 lb test fluoro (2x or 3x in the brands I use) without noticing a decrease in takes and I very rarely break off big fish. Honestly it's been many years since I tried nylon and maybe I should, just to see if it makes a difference. But when I was first learning Stillwater, my tippet was 5x frog hair mono. I broke off every trip if the fish were >16". Not that I broke off every decent fish, but regularly. What I have learned since going with heavy fluoro is which hooks I can trust to not bend out.

As I've said many times before, it is about eliminating variables. On too many occasions, fluro has been the variable that has made the difference, especially in waters that are more heavily fished. After breaking off myself more than I care to count, I'm also now a fan of 3X, but I do keep my 5X around for special occasions.

 

[Troutlife]

At the moment I just have 4x Rio mono for all purposes because I am prioritizing other gear, but I might invest in some fluorocarbon if I start running low or have funds to spare

 

[Irafly]

At the moment I just have 4x Rio mono for all purposes because I am prioritizing other gear, but I might invest in some fluorocarbon if I start running low or have funds to spare

I'll send you a spool if 4X fluorocarbon.

 

[Salmo_g]

I asked because my experience with fluoro is knots that didn't hold. Being kinda' old school I use blood knots to join tippet to leader and a variation of the Turle knot to affix fly to tippet. Fluoro doesn't like those knots. It may be time to learn some new knots. If you see a guy fishing from a pram who is looking at printouts while tying his leader and flies, that will be me.