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Willybethere
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268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've never rowed with counterbalance oars and curious to hear opinions from those who've rowed both counterbalance and non? For what it's worth I have a Clack 16LP with Carlisle Power Strokes.

Thanks!
 

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350 Posts
Bryan, yes they are, Carlisle have to be the heaviest oar made, but I have only used Sawyer woods and Carlisle. I am now rowing a 35 year old boat with carlisle and use 15 pound ankle weights on the handles just below the grip. Keeps me from pushing down all the time, and if I drop the oar, to sip a beer, it doesn't sink like a brick on the blade, hang the bottom, and come back and punch me out of the rowers seat. Clack is probably wider and you are probably, younger, stronger, better looking, and not as lazy as I am.

Craig
 

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Still fly fishing in the PCW
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5,371 Posts
I used to do what Doc does (ankle weights) and shoulder problems forced me to finally get counter-balanced Cataracts with floating blades. They are one of the best purchases I've ever made. I doubt you'll regret buying them, rather, you'll wonder why it took you so long!
 

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Clack 16 footer w/ 9- 1/2' Sawyer counter balanced & Dyna-Lite blades. Kind of weird looking, but man are they nice. A whole nuther world above (and about half the weight) of the Carlisles that came with the boat. And if you're gonna pop for the Sawyers, get them to extend the rope wraps another 12 " & get the Cobra oar locks while you're at it. Makes rowing, even sculling the boat while you're standing up scouting for steel real nice!
 

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307 Posts
I have 8 1/2 foot Carlise aluminum shafts with magnum blades - way heavy. I added the Cataract Oar Counterbalance Sleeves from Sportco in Fife. Not cheap but well worth the money. Even a desk jockey like me can row all day with this set-up. The inside diameter of the sleeve is a little large for my shaft but I added a sigle layer of foam tape to take up the gap.
 
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