You have the best combo. Maybe another set of square tops with the shoal cut blades.
I figured I'd go with the standard blades for all around use. Not planning on buying 2 sets. If u had only one set, which would you choose? How much time have you spent with each combo?You have the best combo. Maybe another set of square tops with the shoal cut blades.
Thank you for the info! I'm in Oregon and will be banging these around on lots of rocks. I can think of very few gravel bars on any of the rivers I fish. I need some tough blades. I'm still not sold on the Cobras. I've only used standard oar locks, and on my 2-man pontoon. I thought I would spend the extra $20 for the "upgrade", but not sure I'll love the Cobras. I'm pretty sold on the square tops. I like the idea of a relatively counterbalanced oar that will float if lost. I also think they look neat, with a blend of real wood with more modern materials. Are the shoal cut blades lighter? That might be a selling point. I'll look it up.I originally had that exact same oar and oar lock set up on my Hyde drift boat, but soon changed to the V-lams with the shoal cut blade because I found I preferred the narrower, and seemingly lighter, shaft and blade of the V-lamps, and didn't need the heavier duty Dynalite blades for the rivers I float (and I don't often wedge my oar blades between rocks, or use them to push off gravel bars, etc.!).
However, I recently sold my Hyde and am ordering a new Clackacraft for this coming spring, and will be getting the Sawyer Mountain Driftboat oars (a custom variation of the Squaretops with Dynalite blade, designed a by Gary Beebe in Victor, ID). These oars are sold directly by Clackacraft for their driftboats, and by Beebe also.
However, I am not going to go with the Cobra oarlocks on my Clackacraft, after using them for the past 4 years, and after talking to Beebe at lengthy about them - he knows a lot more than I do about them, and I think what he said makes sense. Among other things, he said that these oar locks are designed for your oars to be able to pop out if needed in a dangerous whitewater situation, such as in whitewater rafting situations - I'm probably paraphrasing what he said, and I don't need or want that on my drift boat - perhaps your usage might be different. Plus, even after carefully tuning the Cobras to my oars. I didn't find them to be particularly easy for rowing. For that reason, I'm going back to getting good ole standard brass NRS oarlocks for my new boat.
I stand up and row all the time with standered locks in my boat.... wait so have you!I like the ability to stand while rowing...only with cobras. the pro-locs im not a fan of..new shafts bend too much..plus i like my training wheel oar rites when im feeling lazy. . .i row Sawyer counterbalanced with dynalights.. easy on the shoulders.
..I stand up and row all the time with standered locks in my boat.... wait so have you!
They do, but I already have the long shaft motor.Do they offer a option for a removable section in the transom? It allows you to go with a shorter shaft motor.
The blades float it's the shafts that are waterlogged..
Brian rows counterbalanced oars too..water logged blades with no weight in the handles no Buenos on the shoulders..hate ur oars! haaaa lol