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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the past few weeks I've heard multiple references made to this pattern. I decided to check it out. From the pictures I could find online, it looks alot like a mohair leech except with a very scraggley dubbed body.

I like the look of the pattern but maybe I'm missing something. To those who use/tie this pattern, what is it about this pattern that sets it apart? Is it the dubbing blends? The long slender tail, or the undersized bead? What colors do you like? (typical black, olive and wine or something else.

I really like the seal bugger in black/red, olive and white for my non-descript leech pattern, but maybe I will tie some of these up and give them a shot.

Jarron
 

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I'm partial to olive with a red glass bead. Black works well to. Both are go to searching patterns at Lone and Pass. Super easy to tie for a hack like me. I also experiment with the amount of dubbing used and tail length. The tail action is what makes the Hale Bop so killer.
 

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The pattern was originally developed and commercialized by Derek Fergus if I remember right. It is/was tied with his "On the Take" dubbing blends. Usually tied with a dubbing loop or wire like the PetiJean system. Basically another leech pattern that works.
 

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I think the cool thing about that pattern is that the straggly looking body becomes very translucent in the water.. That allows the tinsel under-body to come through. It is a killer fly. I prefer it in olive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going to tie some up with both glass beads and tungsten. From the looks of it, I guess what sets it apart is the undersized bead, picked out scraggley body and long slender tail.

Phil: I like your idea of a tinsel underbody. I've seen other leech patterns ribbed with flashabou and then picked out, sounds similar.

Any other dubbing mixes/combos you like? I'm planning on some olive, brown-olive, black, white and red-black mixes.

Jarron
 

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i tie mine with a short marabou tail with the dubbed out body, no bead, 200r size 10. deadly cold water early season fly. i fish it on a type III and count it down to the bottom and make smooth 1.5' strips followed by long pauses to let it settle again. that flashy stillwater dubbing is my go to but i always have a couple drab patterns in case it matters. black or maroon. if you dont hang up now and again you are wussing out.

i havent found many things that outfish that presentation in water mid to upper 40's. ive had big number days at pass when everyone is scratching their heads like "WTF is this kid doing???"

i dont run beaded halebopps cause the fly is kind of a "do nothing fly" meanin its effective just sittin there helpless in cold water situations. when temps hit 50 its chiro time. i run beads on flies i intend to fish more actively to portray a livelier, swimmier target to the fish. thats where bunny fur and marabou bodies shine. a dubbed body is pretty lifeless in comparison.

my $.02 worth of theory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sean-

I like your theory. I have found that my number one retrieve for buggers/leech patterns regardless of time of year is fairly quick, consistent 3-4 inch strips after letting it sink on a Type II. I will pause now and again, but I like to keep the fly moving. I have tried the long, slow 1-2 foot pull (ala Denny Rickards) hand twist and others, but for leeches that is my number one retrieve. If I weight my leeches, I'm almost always wrapping lead on the shank as opposed to a bead. I wrap the bead towards the front of the shank, so not sure there is a huge difference besides the shine/flash from the bead. Sounds like I may want to mess around with some glass beads though.

Chiros, scuds and callibaetis patterns ect I will strip alot slower and pause more often or not move them much at all. I always find it interesting when the fish want a dead still chiro one day and a moving one the next, I'm sure wave action/movement plays a role in that too.

Jarron
 
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