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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
7’6” 4 wt that is hollowed and deeply flamed. The taper is based on the Powell B taper formula and the rod is hollowed in the Powell fashion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Everything about that rod is pure class. How would you describe the casting action?
Thank you all for the positive comments. I've worked to up my game on rod finish and details. The taper is one I've used many times, the action is medium progressive with fine tips. It uses a 13/12 stepdown ferrule which is key to the action.
Thanks again,
Ray
 

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Formerly tbc1415
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Very handsome. Where are the cap & ring from?

TC
 

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Formerly tbc1415
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Very interesting. I hadn't heard of that before. Do you mean that flat stock is rolled around a mandrel and then silver soldered? I'm sure there are other steps but is that the basic idea.

TC
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll take some photos the next time I do some cups. First step is to punch out a flat disc of nickel silver. Push the disk through a die over a rod to form a cup. The finished cup takes 2 draws. The first draw gives me a cup about about 1" od the next is to finish size . .690 ID .750 od.

There is several advantages over hardware machined from bar stock.

1-Almost no waste so the cost is much lower

2-Flat stock is readily available -tubing is expensive and hard to find.

3-Drawing aligns the metal structure making the cups hard and strong. They can be made much thinner with equal or better strength

The down side is that you have to machine drawing dies and have a press with sufficient force to squish the nickel silver through the die.
 

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AKA flyman219
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"YLI silk 100 size #242 tipped with YLI 100 black. Finished with spar. 1st coat 50/50 varnish and artist walnut medium, followed by thin coats of varnish."

Ray,

What is walnut medium and what does it do for your wraps?

I also like your insert the way it transitions to the cork grip. Very nice. I'm also interested in your cap and ring, what was your agent for blackening (bluing), it looks really nice.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Artist walnut medium is used with oil based paints to promote flow and as a replacement for solvent. Probably other uses too but in this application it minimizes or prevents shimmers. There is learning curve to using it and it sets up slowly but it works pretty well.

The nickel silver bluing is based on photo developer and I've hear it is the same process that Dickerson used. It gives a dark blue black and is not terribly toxic (like the Payne formula). It still needs to be over coated with a clear coat but it's easy to apply. Send me a pm and I send the formula. I'd also be happy to send you a sample of both of the bluing and walnut/varnish but I don't know if I can ship them through the mail.

The small square bottle in the photo is pine pitch and turpentine. It is super sticky and is used on tipping. With a tooth pick to rub a little on your fingers the rub on tipping thread. It helps the whole deal stick together until the rod is varnished. Then clean your fingers with rubbing alcohol. It's invisible under varnish and flex coat. But I don't know how it would react with other finishes. I think this was a tip from Joe Arguello, but I may be wrong.
 

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Formerly tbc1415
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Somewhere on Clark's there is a least one and maybe more step by step posts with photos about pressing cups from slugs. Both socketed and straight sided.
Last summer at CCR I bought a handful of unfinished socketed cups from Alan Kube. They just need to be buffed.
 
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