First of all I have to recommend that you get a hold of Philip Rowley's book Fly Patterns for Stillwaters: A Study of Trout, Entomology and Tying. It is the best book I have read about stillwater fishing.
Having said that here are my recommendations.
* indicates patterns found in Rowley's book
- Callibaetis Sparkle Dun, #12-#16
- Callibaetis Cripple, #12-#16
- *Callibaetis Spinner, #14-#18
- *Mikulak Sedge #6-#10,
- Griffith's Gnat, #14-#18
- *Raccoon, #12-#16
- *Adult Damsel (brown and blue), #8-#12
- *Foam Ant, various sizes and colors
Wet Flies, Nymphs, and Streamers
- *Any Black Chironomid Pupa
- *Any Red Chrironomid Pupa
- San Juan Worm
- *Water Boatman, #10 & #12
- Soft Hackle(various colors) #8-#12
- *Any Damsel nymph
- *Half Back, #10-#14
- *Any Dragon Nymph
- *Any sort of Bugger in various sizes
- Clouser Minnow, #8-#12
In the dry flies, I would drop the Mikulak Sedge unless you plan to fish the travelling sedge hatch in BC. I would also add the Gulper Special, or Parachute Adams. You might have it covered with the Callibaetis patterns, but the Gulper is the only one I use.
In the wet flies, I would tie Ice Cream Cone (in Rowley's book) as the Chironomid Pupa, forget the SJ Worm, in favor of one of Rowley's chiro larvae patterns. And the Water boatman pattern, should be Rowley's Water Floatman. I hope you have a sinking line to fish it.
I slayed them last year with the Thin Mint Leech. It's kind of a variation on the woolly bugger. Fish it with quick short 1 to 2 inch strips. It earned me lots of glares from the fishless at Pine Lake as I trundled about in my float tube, continually pulling up trout.
Hook: Size 8-10 long shank streamer, but not too long
Tail: A few strands each of black, brown, and wine marabou--mottled is good!
Body: Peacock herl
Palmered Hackle: Brown Hen
Rib: Copper wire to reinforce the hackle.
Very slow trolling is a quite productive method for lake fishing. My favorite go to fly on the lakes is a copper wire varient of a Doc Spratly. If you are tying yourself, go for a black fuzzy body (any method you wish). Use pheseant tail material for the tail, wing, and beard (beard optional), rib with coper wire. The wing is no longer than the body.
The fly doesn't look like any particular bug, but is buggy enough to work.
Play with longer bodies, fat, skinny, 8x, 12x, etc. another varient is a light green body or a red one.
I usually use an intermediate line with an 7-10 foot leader, but an even longer leader on a floating line will make a shallower presentation if needed.
You should also have a bunch of wooley buggers on hand, they do catch fish.
I suggest taking a look at this month's flyfishing and tying journal. It has an article by A.K. Best on his favorite lake/pond flies. Good explainantion of why they work and when to use different ones. In my opinion, this dude really knows what he's talkin about. thats my hint for the day. - Trevor
Don't forget small (sz 14-18), generic nymphs! Pheasant tail, hare's ear, and price nymphs have saved several days when the fish were ignoring my leeches and soft hackles. My go to lake rig this past year has been a bugger or carrey special with a small nymph trailer on a full sink line. Works really well when you're covering a lot of deeper water. Sometimes I think they'll swim over to check out the bigger fly but grab the tiny nymph instead.
Western Wa. vs. Eastern Wa are very often completely different; it kind of depends what lakes you plan on fishing. Suggested patterns of careys, wooley buggers are good search patterns; and basic nymphs like hare's ear or zug bugs are a good start either side of the mountain though.