[TheNautiCoug]

Hi, new here and looking for a little advise because I got absolutely skunked at Blackman's yesterday when it seemed like there were fish all around me. So here is a screen shot. This was at about 1pm in the northwest corner of the lake, and the fish blips were pretty constant.

Water temp as you can see 42 degrees, overcast skies occasional sun breaks and water was pretty murky i would think maybe 18-24" clarity (i don't know how much that factors with fish, again i'm new to this). I tried bead head olive wooly bugger with some flash stripped on a type 3 sink. I tried a scud imitation unweighted under an indicator at approximately 3.5-4ft down. I tried an unweighted san juan worm under an indicator with a little split shot about 12" up from the fly. I also tried a chironomid pattern with red and black stripes also under an indicator. So I am wondering if i just hit them at the wrong time of day, i didnt have the right lure or if its still just too cold that the fly basically has to be right in front of their nose for a strike. So any info would be beneficial so that the next time i get a chance to fish I might have a little success.
Thanks

 

[Buzzy]

If I'm reading your sonar display correctly, the water was 6.4 feet deep and "fish" were marked from 4.0 to 5.6 feet. I doubt you were marking fish. You might try turning the sensitivity down. A friend of mine acquired a new, high tech - state of the art - sonar unit several years ago. Excitedly we headed out to a local lake. This thing was pinging away and showing fish on the display. We were in gin clear water 4-feet deep. There wasn't a trout within a 100 feet of the boat let alone six or seven right beneath us in the cone that was maybe 2 feet diameter.... If you were, in fact, marking fish - keep trying.

 

[Old406Kid]

First of all, welcome to the forum.
I live on the east side so not familiar with Blackman's but talking lakes in general you don't look to be far off with your
techniques. I guess a little more experimentation with patterns and perseverance at this point is all I can add.
I like that awesome depth finder display but would probably have to turn it off if I had those fish staring me in the face and no action.
Out of curiosity is this the unit you're using and if so how do you like it?
https://buydeeper.com/en/deeper-pro-plus

 

[TheNautiCoug]

If I'm reading your sonar display correctly, the water was 6.4 feet deep and "fish" were marked from 4.0 to 5.6 feet. I doubt you were marking fish. You might try turning the sensitivity down. A friend of mine acquired a new, high tech - state of the art - sonar unit several years ago. Excitedly we headed out to a local lake. This thing was pinging away and showing fish on the display. We were in gin clear water 4-feet deep. There wasn't a trout within a 100 feet of the boat let alone six or seven right beneath us in the cone that was maybe 2 feet diameter.... If you were, in fact, marking fish - keep trying.

Yeah i guess i should have messed with the settings a bit more to see if what was being displayed was accurate. I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thank you

 

[TheNautiCoug]

First of all, welcome to the forum.
I live on the east side so not familiar with Blackman's but talking lakes in general you don't look to be far off with your
techniques. I guess a little more experimentation with patterns and perseverance at this point is all I can add.
I like that awesome depth finder display but would probably have to turn it off if I had those fish staring me in the face and no action.
Out of curiosity is this the unit you're using and if so how do you like it?
https://buydeeper.com/en/deeper-pro-plus

Well so far, I do like it. It holds a signal very well paired with my iphone over wifi (drains the phone battery pretty quick though). It's portable and cast-able which is a plus (i'll have to cast it out next time). I just had it dragging behind the boat attached to a spinning rod I have had from many years ago. I do need to play with the settings a bit more next time i get out on the water. As the previous poster mentioned the sensitivity might have been a bit on the high side.

 

[Buzzy]

Well so far, I do like it. It holds a signal very well paired with my iphone over wifi (drains the phone battery pretty quick though). It's portable and cast-able which is a plus (i'll have to cast it out next time). I just had it dragging behind the boat attached to a spinning rod I have had from many years ago. I do need to play with the settings a bit more next time i get out on the water. As the previous poster mentioned the sensitivity might have been a bit on the high side.

But what does the previous poster know? ;-) Please take my advice with a grain of salt (free advice?). I use a Humminbird fishin' buddy 140 with my pram and my float tube. I turn the sensitivity down - I think it's something you just have to play with and get comfortable with.

I'm curious how your unit works when you get it dialed in! Good luck.

 

[TheNautiCoug]

But what does the previous poster know? ;-) Please take my advice with a grain of salt (free advice?). I use a Humminbird fishin' buddy 140 with my pram and my float tube. I turn the sensitivity down - I think it's something you just have to play with and get comfortable with.

I'm curious how your unit works when you get it dialed in! Good luck.

I'll definitely let you know and when it comes to fishing any advise is very helpful.

 

[Robert Engleheart]

Agree with all said above, one thought comes to mind; if I was fishing over fish at 3.5 to 4' deep, I believe a type 3 sinking line with a BHWB would be below the fish in a lake. You want them looking up or level, they have very limited vision below. I'd go with a dry line and a 9-10' leader or at most a slow sink, 1-1.5 IPS. But I think Buzzy is correct about the sensitivity.

 

[TheNautiCoug]

Agree with all said above, one thought comes to mind; if I was fishing over fish at 3.5 to 4' deep, I believe a type 3 sinking line with a BHWB would be below the fish in a lake. You want them looking up or level, they have very limited vision below. I'd go with a dry line and a 9-10' leader or at most a slow sink, 1-1.5 IPS. But I think Buzzy is correct about the sensitivity.

Yeah I was playing with depth as best as i could figure. Guess i should have gone to the clear intermediate with the bugger or the worm. Also i checked out a few videos on the best way to use said finder and yeah i should have turned off the fish indicator, and adjusted the sensitivity some to make sure i was actually marking "fish" and not just whatever that was around the boat. I should make the slow intermediate the first line used instead of the floater with an indicator and played with the depth counting down and stripping with various speeds.

Thanks.

 

[GAT]

I've used sonar units for years and agree with the others, it does take a little time to learn to determine if the finder is marking a fish or just some subsurface debris.

And, even if you are marking fish, it doesn't mean you'll be able to catch them.

The more you use the unit and mess around with the sensitivity, the easier it will become to determine if the fish icon showing up on the screen are most likely fish. If they hold in one spot and never move out of frame, chances are, they're not fish... but then again.... keep using it and you'll see.

 

[wanative]

If you turn the fish I.D. off and use the manual mode the fish will show as arch's on the screen.
Adjust the sensitivity so you barely have a double echo which is when 2 bottom images show. the stronger upper image of the bottom on the screen is the real bottom.
Also set your depth to the closest possible to actual depth. For example if in 15' of water set the depth display down to 25' not 100'.
The deeper the water the higher sensitivity setting you use. in 10' of water you may only need a 50 or 60% sensitivity setting.
Go to the manufacturer website and check for tutorials on operating your unit or google manual depthfinder operation.
Lowrance has tutorials that are helpful that you can study and apply the principles to you unit.
As has been said practice on the water over time will be your best ally.

 

[pond monkey]

If you turn the fish I.D. off and use the manual mode the fish will show as arch's on the screen.
Adjust the sensitivity so you barely have a double echo which is when 2 bottom images show. the stronger upper image of the bottom on the screen is the real bottom.
Also set your depth to the closest possible to actual depth. For example if in 15' of water set the depth display down to 25' not 100'.
The deeper the water the higher sensitivity setting you use. in 10' of water you may only need a 50 or 60% sensitivity setting.
Go to the manufacturer website and check for tutorials on operating your unit or google manual depthfinder operation.
Lowrance has tutorials that are helpful that you can study and apply the principles to you unit.
As has been said practice on the water over time will be your best ally.

If you turn the fish I.D. off and use the manual mode the fish will show as arch's on the screen.
Adjust the sensitivity so you barely have a double echo which is when 2 bottom images show. the stronger upper image of the bottom on the screen is the real bottom.
Also set your depth to the closest possible to actual depth. For example if in 15' of water set the depth display down to 25' not 100'.
The deeper the water the higher sensitivity setting you use. in 10' of water you may only need a 50 or 60% sensitivity setting.
Go to the manufacturer website and check for tutorials on operating your unit or google manual depthfinder operation.
Lowrance has tutorials that are helpful that you can study and apply the principles to you unit.
As has been said practice on the water over time will be your best ally.

Good advise.....You ought to turn off "Fish I.D."...... your unit can be interpreting bubbles a fish ect ... and bubbles can be hard to see ..... all other settings can be set on auto mode to keep it simple, your unit will adjust for sensitivity needed pretty well.....
If you want to develop confidence in what you are viewing you need to get used to reading "raw sonar returns."....confidence will come....Check out "Doctor Sonar"....on line.....nice guy and he's is very helpful,,,

 

[Scott Salzer]

I'm one of those that is skeptical if the fish find feature. I use my Hummingbird to find structure, troughs, drop offs, etc. It does mark fish and I think it gives a general idea of where they may be. Not a big fan of the side view on some fish from finders. Just my opinion.

 

[TheNautiCoug]

If you turn the fish I.D. off and use the manual mode the fish will show as arch's on the screen.
Adjust the sensitivity so you barely have a double echo which is when 2 bottom images show. the stronger upper image of the bottom on the screen is the real bottom.
Also set your depth to the closest possible to actual depth. For example if in 15' of water set the depth display down to 25' not 100'.
The deeper the water the higher sensitivity setting you use. in 10' of water you may only need a 50 or 60% sensitivity setting.
Go to the manufacturer website and check for tutorials on operating your unit or google manual depthfinder operation.
Lowrance has tutorials that are helpful that you can study and apply the principles to you unit.
As has been said practice on the water over time will be your best ally.

excellent advise, again this is all things i would have probably never thought of (first fish finder and all). I would have overlooked actually playing with the settings just assuming the lake is teaming with fish and i'm terrible at fishing.

thank you

 

[TheNautiCoug]

I'm one of those that is skeptical if the fish find feature. I use my Hummingbird to find structure, troughs, drop offs, etc. It does mark fish and I think it gives a general idea of where they may be. Not a big fan of the side view on some fish from finders. Just my opinion.

After having so many show up this time and having not finely tuned the unit, I would have to agree that the fish icon will have to stay off for the time being.

Thanks