I'm a nail knot guy.
Loops
Just curious, how many of you use the handshake loop on your fly to leader connection and what are you using for the loop?
I've used these braided connecter things for awhile but dropped them after having a couple come unbuttoned on me. I've gone back to a short piece of leader with a nail knot to the line then a perfection loop but I'm starting to think the old school method of the full leader direct to line with nail knot and no loop may be the best solution for presentation purposes. It would seem that the less junk you have on the line, the cleaner the presentation.
Thoughts?
I've used these braided connecter things for awhile but dropped them after having a couple come unbuttoned on me. I've gone back to a short piece of leader with a nail knot to the line then a perfection loop but I'm starting to think the old school method of the full leader direct to line with nail knot and no loop may be the best solution for presentation purposes. It would seem that the less junk you have on the line, the cleaner the presentation.
Thoughts?
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I like loop connection on med-fast 4wt's and up. Factory lines basically all have them in place now.
Still use braided loops for some applications. Once you have it threaded on and in place tie a nail knot but don't snug it right away, slide it back towards end of the braided mono, trim the mono as close and even as possible, -CAREFULLY- slide your nail knot back so it's partially covering the mono butt/tags, cinch down. Tie one more nail knot approximate 3/8" from that one. No more worries about failures.
On light lines (some 4wt and lighter) I like the direct nail knot to tip plan. Pretty simple to keep a leader tip-top shape for quite a few fishing hours by just patch / piecing in blood knotted sections to restore your taper.
Seems like a short mono butt section to fly line and looped for leader connection always induces another curve or coil I'd rather by-pass.
Still use braided loops for some applications. Once you have it threaded on and in place tie a nail knot but don't snug it right away, slide it back towards end of the braided mono, trim the mono as close and even as possible, -CAREFULLY- slide your nail knot back so it's partially covering the mono butt/tags, cinch down. Tie one more nail knot approximate 3/8" from that one. No more worries about failures.
On light lines (some 4wt and lighter) I like the direct nail knot to tip plan. Pretty simple to keep a leader tip-top shape for quite a few fishing hours by just patch / piecing in blood knotted sections to restore your taper.
Seems like a short mono butt section to fly line and looped for leader connection always induces another curve or coil I'd rather by-pass.
When I started-out years ago, there weren't welded loops on fly lines. Backing was attached via an Albright Knot & the leader by tying a single overhand knot at the end of the fly line which was was passed through & around the leader loop and then tucked under the fly line & cinched-down. While I can't ever recall this connection coming loose, it could be a bit "clunky" going through the guides, but it was very easy to back-off & change the leader. Next I progressed to using the nail knot; this was a fairly smooth junction but didn't lend itself to changing leaders quickly. That was followed by the advent of the braided loop connector, but I too experienced a couple failures while using those & I returned to method #1 described above. Now I use loop-to-loop on both ends of the fly line. Backing is attached by means of passing a fly-line spool through a long double surgeons' loop tied in the backing; much easier to tie than an occasionally-tied & usually-frustrating Albright, plus it is simple to swap/replace fly lines & I have never experienced a failure. Leaders are attached via loop-to-loop; if a fly line has no loop I make one using Knot Sense, a bobbin & whip finish with a final smooth coat of Knot Sense. This slips through rod guides smoothly-enough for me & I've never had one of my loops fail either. I am also a fan of tippet rings which serve to retain the original length of a tapered leader; as I have aged, I find it much easier to add a new tippet to a ring via an improved clinch to be much easier than fumbling with a couple blood knots in dim or otherwise light.
Best loop connections .... Simply fold the line over into a loop then with 20 lb backing or braid tie a nail knot that covers them. Then cover the knot with a few layers of pliobond
G
I cut them off. I use a nail knot to join the fly line to a heavy and stiff piece of Maxima. I then connect the leader to the butt section using a blood knot.
I know it's old-school but I never saw the wisdom of connecting a bunch of loops together. It always seemed counterproductive and counter to physics to try to transfer energy from my arm through the rod and fly line to a leader of that was a bunch of links.
I know it's old-school but I never saw the wisdom of connecting a bunch of loops together. It always seemed counterproductive and counter to physics to try to transfer energy from my arm through the rod and fly line to a leader of that was a bunch of links.
A properly installed braided mono loop should never fail. They will wear over time and need to be changed.
I run a lot of straight mono leaders these days. Perfection loop on the fly line end, non slip loop on the business end.
SF
I run a lot of straight mono leaders these days. Perfection loop on the fly line end, non slip loop on the business end.
SF
Yep, this right here.Best loop connections .... Simply fold the line over into a loop then with 20 lb backing or braid tie a nail knot that covers them. Then cover the knot with a few layers of pliobond
I'm similar to Tracker. If there is a factory loop, fine, I'll use the perfection loop on the fresh leader and use it. Eventually the loop wears out and the close second is nail knotting a thick/stiff "sacrificial butt", maybe 10", and blood knot leaders to that. Eventually the butt gets short and you start over. Nail and blood knots have to be more efficient in the wind, as in the cast, than loops. To me it comes down to smoothness in the wind and when God forbid the leader crosses. I have used braided loops and find them clunky, especially if coated. The pliobond loop Rob mentioned above works well too.
I used to cut off all the factory loops on my fly line. But since I really suck at tying any kind of knot, I've been leaving the factory loops on lately. As Long as I've been fly fishing tying knots has been my downfall. I even have trouble tying a nail knot with the tool to do it with.
Seems logical to me that the more stuff and weight you have in the water, the more adverse effect it would have on drag and drift as well. I may dump the loop all together and go direct with a nail knot sacrificial base leader then blood knot that to the regular leader. I'll play with that rig the rest of the season and see how I like it.I'm similar to Tracker. If there is a factory loop, fine, I'll use the perfection loop on the fresh leader and use it. Eventually the loop wears out and the close second is nail knotting a thick/stiff "sacrificial butt", maybe 10", and blood knot leaders to that. Eventually the butt gets short and you start over. Nail and blood knots have to be more efficient in the wind, as in the cast, than loops. To me it comes down to smoothness in the wind and when God forbid the leader crosses. I have used braided loops and find them clunky, especially if coated. The pliobond loop Rob mentioned above works well too.
Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.
I like this approach. I have made loops using 6/0 or 3/0 tying thread and Zap-A-Gap with great results. I had only one fail ever, and that was a tungsten tip with less squish than floating line.Best loop connections .... Simply fold the line over into a loop then with 20 lb backing or braid tie a nail knot that covers them. Then cover the knot with a few layers of pliobond
I use the loop, until it wears out - which is after one big fish, or real bad snag.I'm a nail knot guy.
You can "recondition" them, by applying heat. It works really well, but I'm just lazy sometimes....uh, most times.
Then I go nail knot.
Man, that seems like it would be rough going through the eyes, if you had a long leader on...?Best loop connections .... Simply fold the line over into a loop then with 20 lb backing or braid tie a nail knot that covers them. Then cover the knot with a few layers of pliobond
Have you ever had issues like that Rob? Or do you primarily just use it on "standard" length leaders?
I do the same approach, but just a simple nail knot, then cover it with Silver Creeks CCG.
The only time your leader should be in the guides is when you are stringing up the rod.
When you are done fishing loop the line around your reel cage then hook it on the frame of one of your stripping guided.
That said it's just about as smooth as a factory loop.
When you are done fishing loop the line around your reel cage then hook it on the frame of one of your stripping guided.
That said it's just about as smooth as a factory loop.
Well, I fish 12-20' leaders at times, but it's nice to know that it's smooth baby!The only time your leader should be in the guides is when you are stringing up the rod.
When you are done fishing loop the line around your reel cage then hook it on the frame of one of your stripping guided.
That said it's just about as smooth as a factory loop.
Nail knots are fine for trout, but a bonefish will pop them off. In salt I use braided loops, but secure them with a nail knot and then softex over the loop. If you use factory loops reinforce them with a nail knot to hold in place. I suggest that for big ahi and GT's. It sucks when a big fish pops you off! Mems
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