Or SFR... New Canoe

Nice looking boat. The person in front is the power; the rear is where you steer. Yes, you provide some power but your job in the back is to maintain or redirect your course. That boat looks to have a very flat bottom so it will be a bit more squirrelly than one with more keel. I've canoed most of my life but I just consider myself an amateur paddler. Maybe hit up @dustinchromers for some real advice. Congrats on the new craft. You're developing quite the stable; well done!

Oh and I like that you used your kids as the Guinea pigs for the trial run to be sure it floats. What are dads for if not a little adventure and trial by adversity every now and then?

Learn the J stroke.

The most powerful turning stroke is the rudder. You use the non power face of the blade to push the stern over. Matt is correct the person in the front has little to do with steering. A competent team can split the turning load a little but for most casual paddlers the stern man has the steering control.

The proper paddle is a must. The right size for you is important. I like wood, but that's just me.

Royalex is the best canoe material IMHO so you did well. That boat is designed for less steering and more tracking. You'll get the hang of it. A canoe is a wonderful way to fish and experience rivers. Very few craft provide the versatility, asthetic, and satisfaction of paddling. A canoe is only as good as it's master and quite capable with a good pilot.

I had one of the royalex easy riders. I thought the bottom material flexed too much to get a good grab in the water. I eventually got rid of it as it was a pain to use in any sort of wind.

edited to add: any sort of Eastern WA wind.

I just did some quick googling and this is some decent information:
https://www.cornellcollege.edu/politics/courses/allin/371/canoeskills.pdf

zen leecher aka bill w said:

I had one of the royalex easy riders. I thought the bottom material flexed too much to get a good grab in the water. I eventually got rid of it as it was a pain to use in any sort of wind.

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Flexible bottom is desirable in moving water.

You could always add a keel strip. I'd go with plastic materials, better flex with the hull.

If your going to use this in moving water, disregard.

How much did you pay for the canoe?....I have an identical one in my backyard. It hasn't moved since I discovered float tubes.

Look around for a canoe or paddlers class in your area. It was one of the best ways and quick to get into canoeing safely . I also had ulterior motives in the canoe class, but it turned out she was only interested in learning to canoe. So if, you can take it with someone that will become your canoeing partner that will really pay dividends.

Your kids really should take the class....they will have a blast.

Vladimir Steblina said:

How much did you pay for the canoe?....I have an identical one in my backyard. It hasn't moved since I discovered float tubes.

Look around for a canoe or paddlers class in your area. It was one of the best ways and quick to get into canoeing safely . I also had ulterior motives in the canoe class, but it turned out she was only interested in learning to canoe. So if, you can take it with someone that will become your canoeing partner that will really pay dividends.

Your kids really should take the class....they will have a blast.

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It was $400.

As you've been told, all the stearing is done in the stern. It's hard to explain, but the person in the stern alternates between a varying number of C strokes and a J strokes to keep on a steady course, regardless of whether there is someone in the bow.

Denisr

Ask Freestone for some advice. I understand she knows a little bit about canoeing.

Vladimir Steblina said:

Ask Freestone for some advice. I understand she knows a little bit about canoeing.

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Vladimir, If you decide to sell your canoe, I might be able to find a buyer.

I am leaving for Alaska in a couple of days and will be gone for two months. After that might work.

I have a 1984 Easyrider royalex canoe, 15' 8". Can't remember the model name, but it has no keel because it was designed for river running. I used it a lot on lakes as well, most recently a couple months ago at Lake Chopaka. Steering and control are acquired skills. A class would be one way if that's convenient, but a book and some practice will get you there. I saw that I could paddle and handle the wind almost as well as friends who were rowing prams in the lake. The installed seats are not always the best place to position yourself for good balance, trim, and getting along with the wind.

Sg

You know what, fly fishers don't have a monopoly on elitism. I googled "adding a keel to a canoe"

Wow! In some circles that's the same as cutplug spey!

If you're interested in using it exclusively on stillwaters, it's a no-brainer. Your not going to be sliding sideways over rocks and it's going to just track better.

Salmo_g said:

I have a 1984 Easyrider royalex canoe, 15' 8". Can't remember the model name, but it has no keel because it was designed for river running. I used it a lot on lakes as well, most recently a couple months ago at Lake Chopaka. Steering and control are acquired skills. A class would be one way if that's convenient, but a book and some practice will get you there. I saw that I could paddle and handle the wind almost as well as friends who were rowing prams in the lake. The installed seats are not always the best place to position yourself for good balance, trim, and getting along with the wind.

Sg

Click to expand...

If you ever want to sell that I'll take it.

Front person paddles, ideally on one side.
Back person steers, usually on both sides.
If you ever find yourself alone, in wind, paddling in circles, add weight to the front end.

LL Bean seels some cool rod holders for canoes called Down East, best I've found for canoe clamp ons.