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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
@Matt B

Last weekend I bought a very used 17' Easyrider Royalex Osprey canoe. A nice boat! This is really for keeping at my parents place for Port Townsend bay. Took it on a trial run to be sure it floats, with my two kids, and We would be doing fine, paddling our intended course, and then we start turning!

What is the trick? Two paddlers, one forward, one back, and sometimes the damn thing would just start going its own route!

What's the secret?

Matt B looks so cool fishing a canoe. In control, not a situation. Me, not so much

Here is the boat:

Car Vehicle Land vehicle Automotive carrying rack Plant
 

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Nice looking boat. The person in front is the power; the rear is where you steer. Yes, you provide some power but your job in the back is to maintain or redirect your course. That boat looks to have a very flat bottom so it will be a bit more squirrelly than one with more keel. I've canoed most of my life but I just consider myself an amateur paddler. Maybe hit up @dustinchromers for some real advice. Congrats on the new craft. You're developing quite the stable; well done!
 

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The most powerful turning stroke is the rudder. You use the non power face of the blade to push the stern over. Matt is correct the person in the front has little to do with steering. A competent team can split the turning load a little but for most casual paddlers the stern man has the steering control.

The proper paddle is a must. The right size for you is important. I like wood, but that's just me.

Royalex is the best canoe material IMHO so you did well. That boat is designed for less steering and more tracking. You'll get the hang of it. A canoe is a wonderful way to fish and experience rivers. Very few craft provide the versatility, asthetic, and satisfaction of paddling. A canoe is only as good as it's master and quite capable with a good pilot.
 

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You could always add a keel strip. I'd go with plastic materials, better flex with the hull.

If your going to use this in moving water, disregard.
 

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How much did you pay for the canoe?....I have an identical one in my backyard. It hasn't moved since I discovered float tubes.

Look around for a canoe or paddlers class in your area. It was one of the best ways and quick to get into canoeing safely . I also had ulterior motives in the canoe class, but it turned out she was only interested in learning to canoe. So if, you can take it with someone that will become your canoeing partner that will really pay dividends.

Your kids really should take the class....they will have a blast.
 

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How much did you pay for the canoe?....I have an identical one in my backyard. It hasn't moved since I discovered float tubes.

Look around for a canoe or paddlers class in your area. It was one of the best ways and quick to get into canoeing safely . I also had ulterior motives in the canoe class, but it turned out she was only interested in learning to canoe. So if, you can take it with someone that will become your canoeing partner that will really pay dividends.

Your kids really should take the class....they will have a blast.
It was $400.
 

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As you've been told, all the stearing is done in the stern. It's hard to explain, but the person in the stern alternates between a varying number of C strokes and a J strokes to keep on a steady course, regardless of whether there is someone in the bow.

Denisr
 

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Royalex is a great canoe material and no longer available since about 2014.

http://www.plasticsnews.com/article...hermoformers-scramble-for-royalex-replacement

Nova Craft has come out with something they call Tuff Stuff, which apparently is a layup of some high performance polypropylene fiber.

http://www.novacraft.com/blog/tuffstuff-part1/

http://www.innegratech.com/technical

Looks pretty cool both from the performance standpoint for watercraft, and the material science of the highly crystalline polypropylene fiber

Jay
 

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I have a 1984 Easyrider royalex canoe, 15' 8". Can't remember the model name, but it has no keel because it was designed for river running. I used it a lot on lakes as well, most recently a couple months ago at Lake Chopaka. Steering and control are acquired skills. A class would be one way if that's convenient, but a book and some practice will get you there. I saw that I could paddle and handle the wind almost as well as friends who were rowing prams in the lake. The installed seats are not always the best place to position yourself for good balance, trim, and getting along with the wind.

Sg
 

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You know what, fly fishers don't have a monopoly on elitism. I googled "adding a keel to a canoe"

Wow! In some circles that's the same as cutplug spey!

If you're interested in using it exclusively on stillwaters, it's a no-brainer. Your not going to be sliding sideways over rocks and it's going to just track better.
 

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I have a 1984 Easyrider royalex canoe, 15' 8". Can't remember the model name, but it has no keel because it was designed for river running. I used it a lot on lakes as well, most recently a couple months ago at Lake Chopaka. Steering and control are acquired skills. A class would be one way if that's convenient, but a book and some practice will get you there. I saw that I could paddle and handle the wind almost as well as friends who were rowing prams in the lake. The installed seats are not always the best place to position yourself for good balance, trim, and getting along with the wind.

Sg
If you ever want to sell that I'll take it.
 

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Front person paddles, ideally on one side.
Back person steers, usually on both sides.
If you ever find yourself alone, in wind, paddling in circles, add weight to the front end.

LL Bean seels some cool rod holders for canoes called Down East, best I've found for canoe clamp ons.
 
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