[Jason Shutt]

So I'm wondering how the action of a rod plays into the fight. I figured the action had everything to do with the cast and never considered how it influences the part where you actually play the fish. I've been buying my last few rods to fit my cast style- fast.

Now I hear about stiff rods losing cutties because the fish can decrease the pressure on the line while bouncing the rod tip. The only fish I've hooked in 5 months shook me off about 6' from my feet due to exactly this.

I love my new ultra fast rod as it casts like a NASA rocket. But damn, did I curse myself to lose tough fighting fish? Or is there something I can do during the fight to overcome this issue?

 

[James Waggoner]

I'm not sure I see the problem. I would think a better faster shock obsorber would be...well better. I would think some adjustments would need to be made, such as maintaining a good bend in the rod, with a high rod or side position. The reason being, all the tippet saving action is in the upper portion of the rod the flatter the rod the less shock obsorbtion. Yes, this is also true with a slower rod but it's more forgiving in a lower flatter position becuase it flexes lower in the rod.

Just my thoughts, maybe some one with better knowledge on rod design will chime in.

James.

 

[sheetfly]

You can't judge a rod by ONE fish! Everyone loses a fish now and then.

 

[Derek Day]

I've seen this issue when using a 7 wt for trout. It works wonderfully on bigger fish, but the fish under 12'' get off much easier than on a 4 wt.

 

[Gone]

I think tip sensitivity is key more than overall action of the rod, and a fast action rod can have a sensitive tip, or it can be a broomstick.
Being able to feel what the fish is doing can help in how you react, by either yielding and giving it some line or holding your position.

 

[Lugan]

Over about 3 decades of fishing, I found myself in the last decade with nothing but super stiff/fast rods. I noticed I was losing a lot of fish too.

I have since switched all but my heaviest line rods to medium graphite and even a few slow glass rods (in very short lengths). I like the casting and fighting much better. It has made a large difference in my ability to land fish. And if you're a proficient caster, you can still throw a line 70-90'. I have a 6'5" 4wt Wojnicki glass rod that can throw a WF4 line 60', which is a very freaky sensation with that rod.

 

[Old Man]

Me, I never worried how a rod casts or how I catch the fish on the other end. I buy what I need and get the line that the rod calls for and go fish. Right now I use a TFO pro 4 piece 5wt. With a GPX line. For me on the smaller rivers that I fish it is a good enough rod for me. I have better rods but this rod is a cannon over my GLoomis. I don't get technical over anything that I use in fly fishing. I'm out there to have fun and not worry about all the little things.

 

[Gary Thompson]

I like it when the fish gets off after a short, stout fight. I don't have to get my hands all wet and slimmy.
If I'm going to eat that fish then I use a long handled net.
LDR is as good as it gets for C&R.

 

[dryflylarry]

There is a difference between fighting a fish with a broomstick and one on a willow stick. When a fish (particularly cutthroat in the salt) starts shaking it's head, twisting etc., it can make me shudder because I hate losing a fish. I think a softer rod tip can make a difference. When that rod tip begins to bounce, I say you can be in trouble with a fast action stiff tip rod. I usually lighten up with very light pressure when this happens and also sometimes try to change the fish's behavior by a light side pressure or something.

 

[Plecoptera]

You didn't mention what rod you are using, but I think the key point here is to match the rod size to the fish. I used to use my fast action 6wt for SRC's just in case I hooked a steelhead, but found I would lose a lot of the smaller 10-12" fish that couldn't put a decent bend in the rod. When I switch to a 3 or 4wt and my landing % went up. If most of the fish I expect to catch are below 16" or so, I won't use anything larger than a 4wt.

I like the leverage a faster rod provides during the fight, but thats just a personal preference.

 

[Jeremy Floyd]

It feels like I lose less fish in a barbless fishery, and most definitely break off less fish when using light tippet, with a slower rod. There aren't any recorded numbers to back it up, but I can feel the rod bucking more and abruptly stopping after it takes up slack with a faster rod. The tension always feel more even (to me) with a slower rod.

The skill of the fisherman plays into the equation far more than the rod though.

 

[Steve Saville]

You will break off more fish/flies with a stiffer rod. You may have to go to one higher tippet than usual so you don't do it. It's tricky. I used to break off a lot of trout on the Deschutes with my 6 wt RPL so I fish a 4 wt. LL now and don't break off nearly as many; Softer tip.

 

[Salmo_g]

My observation is that neither fly rods nor fish fight much. I don't fight fish. It would be unfair, me having two large fists and all. However, I can see a disadvantage to playing a fish with a super-fast rod. There isn't much give in a fireplace poker. Maybe that's one reason I prefer medium action rods.

Sg

 

[soundflycaster]

For trout fishing in any waters I reccomend medium fast actions. This provides a good balance between casting and fighting. The only time I fish extra fast rods is for casting all day 80'+ or very strong winds. The only rods where I use extra fast or fast all the time is for Tarpon fishing.

 

[Richard E]

Now I hear about stiff rods losing cutties because the fish can decrease the pressure on the line while bouncing the rod tip. The only fish I've hooked in 5 months shook me off about 6' from my feet due to exactly this.

It's rarely operator error, isn't it? Most folks blame barbless hooks for losing fish. Not to be rude, but this is the first time I've heard someone blame the rod action. Maybe it was the stretch (or lack thereof?) in the tippet? Maybe it was the core of the fly lline? All not likely. It's most likely operator error.

I'm not sure what rod you are using, but I'd bet a Krispy Kreme it ain't the stick. But, hey, if that's the rationale needed to invest in a new stick, go for it! I'll add that one to my lengthy and distinguished "Why I need this {fill in the blank} fly fishing item" list.

Just ribbing you; a little. Again, don't know what stick you're using, but a fast 6 weight is a great cuttie stick. If the weather were right and/or you are an above average caster, a fast 5 weight rod is ideal.

Summarizing, it's highly unlikely the rod is to blame for the loss of the cuttie.

 

[Don Freeman]

I'd look at your terminal gear before the rod action. Are you using long shanked streamer hooks? That will cost you more fish than rod action. I use a bona fide salt water rod, an Xi2 that's stiffer than a wedding prick, but small, short shanked SC15 hooks on tubes, and only lose the occasional fish. Keep your tip high, reel smoothly to reduce wobble at the tip and avoid long streamer hooks. And some will still come off before you see them. It's a sport.

 

[Lugan]

And some will still come off before you see them. It's a sport.

THAT is true. Our sport is indeed called "fishing", not "catching".

I think in many sports it's healthy to enjoy the process more than the outcome. Just yesterday I spoke with a co-worker who had just returned from a summit attempt of Anapurna (sp?) in South America. He didn't summit, but still appraised the trip as a rousing success. He said, "The sport is called 'climbing', not 'summiting'". Wise words.

 

[Paul Johnson]

Basically, rods don't lose fish. It is like saying that you rod casts to the left because it is spined incorrectly. It is just not the case.
I have heard people say that softer rods protect tippets better. If you are issuing a Herculean set on a trout...then this may be the case. If you can easily raise the rod tip and set the hook, then you will not have this problem.
The key to any rod is:
A. Fishing a rod YOU like. Not what your buddy tells you is the Gucci rod to own.
B. Finding a rod that fits your casting style. We all want to drive a Ferarri, but very few will understand the intricacies of a machine like this. It is like overloading a rod....why not just buy the action you like?
C. But a rod for the fish you catch MOST of the time.....not the one's you hope to catch.
I would not worry about "tip bounce", especially if you are purchasing high-end rods. They are designed to work....you don't need to MAKE them work.
my .02,
PJ

 

[steelydan]

I think about this all the time.
When I was gear fishing steelhead, I had to have the fastest action rod to detect those soft bites.
It did and I caught fish, but playing them with a brittle, fast action rod was not that enjoyable.
I started fishing a moderate-actiod rod and playing the fish was much more relaxed.
I wish I'd bought a slower action fly rod.
Maybe I should trade?