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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I am currently just getting underway on building my first rod, a 9 ft 6 weight. Anyway, I am using a Pacific bay uplocking reel seat, and I am bit confused on the proper placement. The wood barrel fits just about perfectly onto the blank, however at the the butt of the seat, the aluminum hangs approximately 1/2 inch past the wood barrel and is about twice the diameter. It has a removable butt cap, and I intend to leave it off and attach a fighting butt. My question is, when gluing the reel seat to the blank, do I keep it flush with the end of the wood barrel, or extend the blank farther back, so it is actually flush with the very end of the reel seat? I have done a lot of researching before starting this project, but I have not seen anything addressing this issue. I hope I clarified this enough to get an answer. Thank You much in advance.
Pete
 

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Steve Daley - West Seattle Denizen
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If you are going to be using a fighting butt, then you should epoxy the rod flush with the end of the wood spacer. I would not epoxy anything until you have the fighting butt "dry fit" to make sure that everything fits properly.

If you are going to make your fighting butt permanently attached you may also want to trim off sufficient length from the butt end of the blank such that all sections of your rod are of equal length.

Steve
 

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Formerly Tight Loops
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1,341 Posts
Basically, I glue up the reel seat with the fighting butt glued in the base of the seat, shifting everything forward a bit. The rod blank will not be able to decend to the base of the seat, and I just allow the finished rod to be 9' 1" in length. You may wish to cut the blank by a small bit to preserve the 9' length.

As long as the cork mounts flush to the reel seat, and the wood insert fits without gaps, and the base of the fighting butt is well seated, nothing is wrong. If you need to do a little trimming to make it all work, that is quite reasonable. Your goal is to build a rod that is pleasing to you, and structually sound. How you get there is up to you.

Rob
 

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As it has already been said, it's all a matter of personal preferance, but there are some items that will dictate which way things end up. From what I have gathered from your question, the empty space at the butt end of the seat assembly, is there to accommadate the end cap. there are several differant types available (solid, threadded, bored...ect) each of which have their own purpose. You have said that you plan to use a fighting butt, so you will either use a threadded end cap, a bored end cap, or none at all. The threadded and the bored units are made for fighting butts that are removealbe, once again it's just a personal preferance which one you opt to use. if the fighting butt is to remain fixed, or non-removeable, then you need to decide if you want the extra length left on the rod, or if you want all pcs of the rod the same length. I build customers rods the latter, unless requested differantly. The main reason being the availability of pre made bags and tubes, and I personally prefer to have all sections the same length (a 1" gain in length is not worth the trouble). This goes the same for the removable butt rods as well, except the sections are equal length with the butt removed. Most fixed fighting butts will need to utilize the exposed blank as the mounting surface.Some come with a end cap permanantly attached to the butt, and some come with a tapered hole in them. I feel that both are fine to use, but as you can see, there is a differant procedure required to mount each of them. One more thing that I wanted to mention for you is that some end caps will actually fit inside of the I.D. of the blank, allowing the blank to be flush with the end of the seat assembly,and others will require the blank to be inset enough to allow the end cap to seat in the assembly. hope this helps you out!:smokin
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for your replies.
The reel seat that I have does allow the end cap to be placed on while the blank is extended all the way back.. However, I would actually prefer to lengthen the rod slightly so I plan on leaving it flush with the wood and then permantly attaching a 1.5" fighting butt. I was just nervous that leaving approximately 2 inches of hollow space behind the end of the blank would affect the performance, as well as the structural soundness. It sounds like from your responses that this shouldnt be a problem. Thanks again.
Pete
 

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I personally would not worry about the space, it won't affect the structural integrety or the rod in any way. A simple cure for the space would be to fill it with rod bond prior to installing the fighting butt. :smokin
 
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