[Tyler Sadowski]

So while fishing the Hoh this week I completely severed my line, how I did this I have no idea. I did a search and came up with info but mostly making loops on the end of the line. I need to know how to splice my running line back together. I came up with some text based info but does anybody have a pictorial on how to blind splice/ epoxy splice my running line together? Thank you very much for any info guys.

 

[Mumbles]

Tyler, I've been playing Dr. Frankenstein with a bunch of lines over the winter, some heads, some standard lines and some running lines. Mind me asking what kind of line it is? I've had luck with airflo, cortland and orvis lines but had a lot more trouble with rio lines. Also, how far into the running line from the head (or backing) is your slice?

 

[Bert Kinghorn]

Mumbles is asking the right questions. If your running line has a mono core, I would set it aside and buy another.

I see you live relatively close to me. IF you are not in a big hurry to get the line back in service and if you don't get a better offer, I'd be happy repair it for you. I am assuming a non-mono, braided core.

You will have to promise not to rush me, though. This is a hobby for me, not a business. I splice lines when I am not busy with work and when I feel like doing it for recreation. My service is horrid, but the quality of my work is good and it is free.

PM me if you decide you want me to do it and we can workout a handoff time/location.

 

[Blue]

As mentioned, if there is no inner core, I would use the Shimazaki needle knot tool. It is the cleanest connection I have found. Attach mono to one side seamlessly with the tool, then the other. Be sure and use WATER PROOF super glue as many are not.

 

[Old Man]

Go see Aaron over at River Run Anglers. He'll do it for you and bull shit with you while he's doing it. But I'm not to sure of his days at the shop. Sometimes he's open and sometimes he's not.

 

[James Mello]

Looking at the tool, I'm not sure how one would do a line splice with this. Do you have a special technique to do this?

 

[Tyler Sadowski]

Its a Rio skagit 550 and I believe the cut is about 30 feet from where the head meets the running line. So its prob about 60 feet total from the tip of the line. Thanks guys.

 

[James Mello]

Honestly, if you have the dough, just clip the running line and get some new stuff. That running line sucks for 1, and 2, the splice will be at least a few pounds weaker at the splice that the rest of the line. Because of this, you run a serious risk of loosing the whole thing. A welded loop is easy and strong, so if you can, just pony up for a new running line (slickshooter $9.95, other lines around $30.

 

[Tyler Sadowski]

Any opinions on running lines and diameters guys?

 

[James Mello]

Any opinions on running lines and diameters guys?

I'd go to Ron's sunday casting thing. He's got a variety of lines both in mono, traditional floating, as well as GSP core running lines. Get what you like. At this point I'm a huge fan of 50lb slickshooter. Cheap, easy to handle, and cheap.... Some people like thicker lines and such, so play with what's out there. If sunday is out, I'm pretty sure you can get a hold of Aaron Riemer at River Run and get a couple of running lines to demo (or just go to his Saturday thing, it's great too!).

 

[Bert Kinghorn]

Any opinions on running lines and diameters guys?

I prefer .034" Orvis over all others and I blind splice it directly to the old running line about a rod-length down from the color change. The stuff is slick and having the grabbier Rio stuff at the holding point gives me something that is easier to hang on to. The second color change at my holding point also makes it easier to know where to hold the line when setting up for the next cast on the dangle and looking into a setting sun. I often find it difficult to see a color change at my rod tip under such conditions.