Stilly South Fork?
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·Went by the Stilly S/Fork on Wednesday up where the bridge crosses the river on the Jordon road. It was clay in color but appeared to be in the process of clearing up. But then we had some more rain. I think I will check it out this morning. Where Canyon Creek dumps in the river there is a nice hole that is clear if the creek is running clear. Jim S. :THUMBSUP
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Guest
·I kinda new at it also as I've only done it once. Went to the S/F Stilly this morning. Very dirty,maybe 3" visibilty. Tried jig fishing,lost jig on third cast,quit and went home. I tried fly fishing with a 6wt sink tip. I found out that a 6 wt will work but it's kinda small to throw any big flies. I've been toying with the idea of going bigger but every time I think about it I don't like what it's going to cost. If I spend alot and don't do it very often I'm out a lot. But if I go cheap like with that Okaima brand. And I don't do it very often I'm not out that much. Decisions,decisions,decisions. Jim S. (It took me three minutes to look up and spell decisions. I think this site could use a spell checker.) :THUMBSUP
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Guest
·Saw A 8wt in Jerry's surplus for under 100.00. Might spend that much. Don't know wife might get mad.(What!!! another fly rod. Don't you have enough). Then there's the reel. Oh shucks, why does it all have to cost so much. Jim S. :LOVEIT
Jim - you might look at a W.W. Grigg "Custom Made" rod.I found one (4-piece, 9 wt) in a close out sale last Jan. for $80.00. It's a fast tip but I've come to like it and it's my rod of choice with big fuzzy flies (2 to 8) and/or windy beachs. Outdoor Emporium in Seattle carries them and Okuma reels.
As for the wife - if new dresses can be "this old thing" one week after purchase, but before you've seen it, why doesn't it apply to fly rods, shotguns, gear, etc. "I wore this at Joe and Mary's Christmas Party last year", worked fine until I realized that the conversation took place in early Jan. :HMMM
Good Luck, bart
As for the wife - if new dresses can be "this old thing" one week after purchase, but before you've seen it, why doesn't it apply to fly rods, shotguns, gear, etc. "I wore this at Joe and Mary's Christmas Party last year", worked fine until I realized that the conversation took place in early Jan. :HMMM
Good Luck, bart
Joined
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1,098 Posts
DW,
I'll try to answer your question about how to "go about" steelheading. As you might have surmised from the other posts, the general consensus is you'll need an 8-weight. I concur, though there are plenty of people on this forum who'll say you can get by with a 6-weight. True I suppose, but cantcatchem can apparently tell you a little about trying to get by.
Whatever rod you use, it should have a pretty fast action. In most situations around here you'll need to be able to cast a lot of line. I would say that if you can't consistently throw at least 60 feet, you're going to need to get pretty lucky to catch fish (you're going to need to get pretty lucky anyway).
You'll want a line with some kind of interchageable tip system. You can buy these or make one yourself. At best you'll want at least five tips, a floater, and then 10', 13', 17', and 20' sink-tips (all type VI or equivilant). This system will help you effectively fish about every set of conditions you find. If that's too much trouble or expense, get a wieght forward line with a 15' sinktip.
Good fly water is 3' to 6' deep, running about as fast as you can walk (3-5 mph), over cobble, the bigger the better. The most classic water is a short riffle that bends away from the bank about 15-20 degrees, leaving a band of easier water against the shore from 20'-60' wide. The sweet spot is generally thought to be the seam between the faster and slower water.
Start at the very head of the riffle. Cast about 20', about perpindicular to the current, let the line swing all the way around till it's straight below you. Staying in the same spot, pay out about 3' of line and do it again. Keep doing that until you're at your casting limit, then after each swing, take a step or two downstream and do the long cast again. Keep going until you've covered the run entirely, all the way to the tailout.
That's the short version. There are a lot of finer points about direction of cast, line mending, and so forth that you'll need to learn from experience to fit to the water in front of you. The thing you're trying for is a deep slow swing of the fly. Hopefully the fly will be deepest and slowest as it crosses that sweet spot at the seam.The trick is to keep at it, and try to be meticulous. It can get repetitive to the point of boredom. You have to get yourself into something of a "zone." Tom McGuane said the best steelheaders are the ones with strong arms and room-temperature IQs.
Around here, most chaps like big flies with lots of action, marabous, rabbit leaches, and the like in purple, black, orange, wine, pink, on #2-3/0 hooks, tied on a short leader (no more than 4').
Welcome, grasshopper.
I'll try to answer your question about how to "go about" steelheading. As you might have surmised from the other posts, the general consensus is you'll need an 8-weight. I concur, though there are plenty of people on this forum who'll say you can get by with a 6-weight. True I suppose, but cantcatchem can apparently tell you a little about trying to get by.
Whatever rod you use, it should have a pretty fast action. In most situations around here you'll need to be able to cast a lot of line. I would say that if you can't consistently throw at least 60 feet, you're going to need to get pretty lucky to catch fish (you're going to need to get pretty lucky anyway).
You'll want a line with some kind of interchageable tip system. You can buy these or make one yourself. At best you'll want at least five tips, a floater, and then 10', 13', 17', and 20' sink-tips (all type VI or equivilant). This system will help you effectively fish about every set of conditions you find. If that's too much trouble or expense, get a wieght forward line with a 15' sinktip.
Good fly water is 3' to 6' deep, running about as fast as you can walk (3-5 mph), over cobble, the bigger the better. The most classic water is a short riffle that bends away from the bank about 15-20 degrees, leaving a band of easier water against the shore from 20'-60' wide. The sweet spot is generally thought to be the seam between the faster and slower water.
Start at the very head of the riffle. Cast about 20', about perpindicular to the current, let the line swing all the way around till it's straight below you. Staying in the same spot, pay out about 3' of line and do it again. Keep doing that until you're at your casting limit, then after each swing, take a step or two downstream and do the long cast again. Keep going until you've covered the run entirely, all the way to the tailout.
That's the short version. There are a lot of finer points about direction of cast, line mending, and so forth that you'll need to learn from experience to fit to the water in front of you. The thing you're trying for is a deep slow swing of the fly. Hopefully the fly will be deepest and slowest as it crosses that sweet spot at the seam.The trick is to keep at it, and try to be meticulous. It can get repetitive to the point of boredom. You have to get yourself into something of a "zone." Tom McGuane said the best steelheaders are the ones with strong arms and room-temperature IQs.
Around here, most chaps like big flies with lots of action, marabous, rabbit leaches, and the like in purple, black, orange, wine, pink, on #2-3/0 hooks, tied on a short leader (no more than 4').
Welcome, grasshopper.
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Guest
·Bart,I'm going to take your advice. I'm going to go down to Outdoor Emporium maybe next weekend and do just that. The wife keeps buying clothes so I guess that I need a new fly rod. I've been reading up on those reels and I guess they are not that bad. Maybe a few flies also. Can't tie em,too shaky. I know,I tried. Should get all I need for under 200.00 bucks. Thanks for the info. Jim S. :THUMBSUP P/S How big /long was that rod.
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