A tunnel will protect the shoe from hitting rocks but cost more. Are you going to be running in super shallow water where hitting rocks is a big concerns. I don't so went with the cheaper non-tunnel hull. Also I went with a modified V hull for better performance.

For an anchor system I went with a jam cleat and bring the anchor aboard when running. I chose this type of anchor system over a can because of noise and the fact I fish from my boat in the lower river when anchored and didn't want the added noise from a can dropped anchor. It is also cheaper.

I have a side console. I didn't want to be standing in the wind hanging onto a tiller while running the river in January when air temps are hovering around freezing. Center console would sorta do the same. Tiller and center console will give you better visibility when running over the side console.

Don't know about water drainage. Never considered it an issue.

Manufacturers? There are a ton of them. Most good.

Oars for me. Again I fish the lower river from the boat and oars are a necessity for me to maneuver.

Get as much power as the boat can take and you can afford. There is no substitute for horsepower.

 

how long??? if you are getting into the 20' range, consider an inboard (4cyl) with a hamilton pump. will come out about the same weight as an outboard, and is way more efficient. i would never even consider a flat bottom. a slight v in the front, maybe in the neighborhood of 17-18 degrees running back to 2-3 degrees at the transom is a way better ride. center console is the way to go. a single engine, in or out, will not require hydralic steering so really a simple set up. if its aluminum there should already be drainage through any structural parts that you can't see once the deck is on. try and go for zero wood in the boat, it always amounts to a problem at some point. lots of ways to anchor a sled, none of them stellar, the mfg will have some suggestions for you. i carried a great set of oars in my 20footer for 12 years and never used'um, kind of the suspendors and belt syndrome. include a high quality depth finder with a epoxied inside the hull transducer, several choices and no hassles with running aground or bangin' the boat off of stuff. if you want to do multiple tasks with this boat, a VHF radio for sure and perhaps a quality handheld chartplotter which you can connect to onboard power would be very nice. might have it wired for electric downriggers, scotty plugs are pretty common. get the heavest gauge marine aluminum you can afford in the fabrication. i would forget the tunnel hull and instead look at negative chines.

my sled ran without a hitch, white water and blue water for a dozen years before i sold her. she was named 'duzitall' and she did a pretty good job of it at that.

 

Thinking 17-18 feet.

I won't be running too shallow, but definitely to shallow to consider prop. Someone had also told me that the tunnel will help with steering / tracking along with reducing cavitation ?

It's interesting that you reccomend a slight V. I had been looking at flat predominantly but it makes sense that a V would offer some comfort.

So far I am eyeing FishRite, Lowe, G3, and Alumaweld.

I also hadn't given much thought to gauge.

 

I run the g3 1860 tunnel jet with a 90/65 jet. I will tell you that this boat can go realllllly skinny, had to get out and measure to be sure, lol. I added oars with a little trial and error, added fins to the intake and use a minnkota anchormate for ease of use by myself, and am really pleased with the boat overall. Happy to answer any questions.

 

if you go with an outboard, have them weld on a 12-14ga plate that will 'cover' the top of the fore edge of the pump, end of cavitation worries. and remember, you will only have to consider this issue if the pump is not mounted properly, that is too high on the transom.

i had mine fabed out of .125 marine grade on the bottom and chines. things got beatup but never broke a weld. if you are going to be running consistently on and over gravel, i would also seriously consider getting the bottom coated with gluvit or equivalent. aluminum 'sticks' when it makes contact, not a good thing.

i would also check out northriver.

and again, if the pump is mounted correctly, the tunnel idea probably won't make much difference. the v'ed hull will make a HUGE difference in ride and tracking. the difference in total draw at rest is not going to amount to much. my 20footer with inboard and 2stage hamilton would sit in 7" of water at the transom. it weighed, 'wet' about 2,000#. if you are running at 40mph into water skinney enough to worry about your draft, i will guarantee you will be much more concerned with changin'yur shorts than making contact!

 

dont go alumaweld. they have started mass-producing their boats, and have started going down the crapper, unless you can get your hands on an older one. with that said NORTH RIVER ALL THE WAY!!!!! awesome boats. do you want it open, or closed? i mean windshield or open deck.

 

I am looking at open or possibly a center console with a small windshield. Tiller vs. center console is one of the decisions on the list.

I looked at North River's web site. They loook like great boats, but nothing in an open design....and I'm guessing nothing in my price range.

As far as bottom coating on the boat, what are the available options that guys like ? Has anyone ever had the bottom coated with the same stuff they use to do spray on truck bed liners ? I have that in my pickup and nothing can damage it.

 

A flat bottom boat can trap air under the boat and can cause cavitation. A modified or slight v hull does not trap much air and allows any air that does get under the hull to flow to the outside of the hull providing the jet intake with a airless sheet of water improving performance and less cavitation.

 

Take a look at Custom Weld if you haven't already. I've spent some time on one of their smaller hulls running Hell's Canyon and the ride is exceptional. Not sure which model, sorry. I know they're well spoken of in that area (company is located in Lewiston, I think).

http://www.customweld.com/

 

A co-worker of mine just ordered a Woolridge, they are made in South Seattle, custom built for each client. Got a 200hp Merc from Steven's Marine in Oregon, no sales tax! Came with a pump and a prop. Also for the serious jet sledders check out http://www.phantomjetboat.com/sportjon-boat.htm

 

gluvit is a product that will seal the aluminum and allow it to slid over rocks. a truck bed liner, i don't think, has that as a design goal. you also need to consider just how much weight you are willing to add to the bare hull. for a 17-18' v'ed hull you are probably looking at a gallon of gluvit, rolled on.

i have run both tiller and cc. i would choose cc knowing what i know at this point. a wheel to hang onto when the runnin' gets tricky is a great thing to have. add a small windshield to deflect some of the rain and be a happy guy.

unless your intent is to 'design' an interior and get it done exactly the way you dreamed about, i would also be looking at used sleds. if they were welded and made by a longtime fabricating NW company, you are pretty safe in assuming the hull is going to go the distance. the power plant is another thing and would suggest you pay to have a licensed dealer, for the brand in question, do a top down inspection and tune.

i personally like the open boat idea so the front windshield has never appealed to me, but thats just me speaking. a 360 degree run around ability always appealed, and continues, to me more. oh, and check the trailer carefully. if a part of this package is going to show abuse, that will be the one. in a boat the size you are talking about, a pretty simple drive on trailer, single axle, no brakes, is probably an ok choice. the wheel bearings, general condition of the frame and whether or not all of the lights work are worth investigating.

happy shopping.

 

IF I WAS TO BUY A SLED TOMORROW, I WOULD LOOK INTO A 1999 ISH INTRUDER BY ALUMAWELD. I HAVE A FRIEND THAT HAS ONE, AND WE HAVE BEAT THAT THING TO CRAP AND IT STILL RUNS AND LOOKS LIKE NEW. IT HAS A VORTEC CHEVY ENGINE SO IT IS EASY TO WORK ON. IT IS EASY TO DRIVE, ON OF THE FEW BOATS THAT I CAN PLANT MY ASS IN THE SEAT AND DRIVE RATHER THAN STAND UP TO LOOK OVER THE BOW.

JUST MY TWO CENTS.

 

Just a few thoughts, as I tricked out what I considered the "ultimate" jet sled over a year ago.

My criteria were that it was primarily a river boat (Cowlitz-Sky-Skagit) with occasional lake and Sound fishing.

Also wanted it to be capable of fishing out of Neah Bay and Seiku for Coho and rockfish as well.

Wanted to be able to fish two other flyfishers comfortably out of it as well as myself, so it needed to be very stable.

I ended up with a tiller-operated Alumaweld SuperV LS 17' with a 14degree / RideMaster V hull and a 90/65 Yammy 4Stroke.

I'd originally wanted a forward console, then a CenterConsole. I was convinced by the flyfishing and gear guides and other jetboat owners that the immediate responsiveness of the tiller and increase in usable space in the boat was worth the tradeoff in comfort.

If I'd wanted to also use it for family cruises, I would have gone with the forward console for the added benefit of a covered area in inclement weather.

Am I happy with it?? Absolutely! For what I purchased it for, it's been ideal. I could have gotten a lighter/flatter bottomed boat that I could have maneuvered effectively with oars (the one thing I miss on this boat), but then I would have sacrificed the smooth open water of the ride. And there are definitely a few other minor things I would have changed.

Kerry brought up a good point - the "can" anchor I have is noisy both while running and when deploying. I kinda wish I'd opted for a cleated line and an anchor in a bucket.

I was very happy with 3Rivers Marine, both for the advice I got and the service during and after the sale for the boat and Yammy jet.

Which leads to another thing I've learned recently and that's the Brand you buy limits who locally can provide service. My Nissan kicker is a great motor, but the service (or lack thereof) I've gotten from one of the dealers in attempting to get it fixed is a story in and of itself.

Just a few observations. The best advice was what I got from others - make a list of "Must Haves" and "Like to Have"s and see what boats qualify. Also talk to guides and others who fish on the rivers where you'll be using your boat and listen to their preferences. The better educated you are on the choices available, the less chance you'll experience the Buyer's Remorse thing.

Good Luck!

Brian

 

doublespey's response raises a question in my mind that hasn't been discussed yet....does flat vs. V-hull affect ability to row with oars ? His response seems to indicate yes.

One of the other options I'm shopping around for is power / winch anchor vs. manual. How many feel that a power system is worth the additional cost / wiring ?

Thanks for all the great info. I can truly say this thread is rapidly becoming one of the best resources that I've found on the web for setting up a jet sled.

For referecnce sake this is the type of anchor system that I'm looking at.